The Tors

A short steep crack with good holds on the left margin of the cliff.

A steep crack with good holds but poor protection until the crux near the top of the climb.

An easy-angled corner with a steep grassy bulge (crux) in the middle.

The bulge between Foma and Granfalloon. Negligible pro

Start in the easy-angled right-facing corner, at mid-height traverse left and climb straight up near the edge.

Start as for G. but continue up the corner, by some interesting bridging (crux).

Climb the sharply cut right facing vegetated corner, which steepens up under a large block. Swing round to the edge on the left using underclings, then climb up the thin crack. Watch for loose rock in the top crack.

Start on the left side of a wall wide. Climb up the thin crack which steepens up under the large block, then proceed delicately on small holds to layback past the block. Holds may be loose and protection marginal.

Start in the middle of the wall near a prominent crack, move onto the wall where this is easier. Great pro.

Starting on the right side of the wall, climb the left facing corner. Harder now since the earthquake.

The wall and bulge between Gumbo and Gollum. Easy start, then up steep wall on good holds and over bulge. Poor pro 'til well after the crux.

The wall to the right of Crapbreech. Start with a move to the right from the small rib. Spaced protection. Purists can choose to stay entirely left or right of the arête for a bit more fun.

Climb the thin crack up through a small roof (crux), and then up to a left facing corner. Proceed pleasantly up the corner to the top. Good protection.

Climb ‘Mirage’ or ‘Hot Legs’ for about eight metres to the gain a standing position on pedestal between the two routes and below a large roof / nose. Launch yourself straight over the roof and up the front face of the pillar on good holds, no protection to the top (climbed on sight).

Start up Hotlegs then move right and up the right-facing corner, going right past the overhang to the top. Protection adequate, but make sure you don't miss the fixed piton under the roof (failing to clip it nearly killed John Visser - don't let it happen to you). Alternatively cheat and clip the bolts on Collateral Damage.

The roof and arête between Mirage and Cat's Cradle. Start on the left, move out to the first bolt and up over the roof (crux) to a good rest, then move technically up the arête. Three bolts plus gear at the top, bolt+chain belay

Move up the smooth groove left of Garganuta and then powerfully straight up through the roof (crux) 5m up. From the vegetated ledge climb the easier wall above and follow the crack veering rightwards. The start used to be easier before the deacying ledge decayed.

The prominent gully, start from the left and swing around into the crack (crux). Continue straight up. Direct start from the right is 18, but probably less awkward since the good ledge on the left fell off.

From 5m up Gargantua move from the gully onto the right wall, following vague cracks. 5m from the top step left and climb a small bulge to finish. Good pro every few metres up the crack. (Nuts and smaller cams)

Start below the Gargantua gully. Move up and right to above the overhang and up the wall above, finishing up the top 3m left of Jambilicus. Adequate Pro on the face (Small wires, slings and RPs)

Climb through the right side of the overhang past the bolt. Carry on up the wall above with reasonable pro with the options of finishing as for Porno, Jamblicus, or the highest piece of rock.

Start just left of Nudity. Climb up about 4m, move left to the bottom of the obvious groove (crux). The protection improves after this section!!! Proceed up the pleasant groove and wall above. Watch out for loose or brittle holds.

From the bottom of Nudity, move left climb the thin crack and wall, then up past Old Single bolt. Move left to arete, over the large hanging flake at the top. Spaced gear & Committing top out.

The prominent corner. Bare, but not indecently exposed. An excellent, sustained route for those with good technique. Straight up to the top. Pro adequate - CDs fit better than nuts (the nut placements are worn), take plenty of small cams (#0.5 and smaller). You can make it 19 by moving out R at 2/3 height to good holds,a hands free rest and pro on ledge.

Through the overhang and up the arete R of Nudity. One loose hold, handle with care. Serious start but adequate pro after that.

Climb the overhang 3m right of Nudity, step right then trend left and up to a good spike hold. Continue up trending left to the top. Sparse protection, very serious.

Climb through the overhang left of Gormeghast then follow a thin crack line right and up until near Gormenghast. Finally proceed up the upper wall. Technically not overly hard for the grade, but sparse protection, serious.

The left leaning corner, climb the underhung start and easy slab to gain the corner. Using holds on the left wall and laybacking move to the top, finish using block and tree roots with care. Adequate protection.

The overhang and wall right of Gormenghast. One bolt. A second bit up steep slippery vegetated loose unprotected rock adds a uniquely alpine flavour...& spaced

The bulge R of the descent route. Interesting texture, and one bolt.

Up the highest part of the wall of rounded holds out on the headland about 150m south of The Tors.