Rapaki

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Quality	Bolts
LE	Left End	15	16m	0
	On Left side of crag. Up through face on left of crag.
LF	Left Face	16	16m	0
	The face between the LH Arete and CN. Thought provoking pro.
CN	Crows Nest	12	16m	1.02
	Start over the blocky slab and climb straight up into a hideaway scoop. Get Phsyced and move slightly left from the 'cave' then straight up to top out through jugs.
Fa	Face Variation	17	16m	1.02
	The face/ slab to the right of CN.
B	Barricoe	14	15m	0
	An easy lower section gives access to a short steep wall.
BC	Bosun's Chair	16	15m	1.02
	Up Vauge Crack, around bulge to ledge. Use hand crack form ledge to top. Poor Pro!
Ra	Ratlines	12	14m	2.01
	A steep crack with small but good holds leads to ledges, finish by trending up left. A harder direct finsh continues up from the top of a large flake.
Fc	Fo'c's'le	14	18m	0
	Up rib to slanting roof. Step left, & bridge up past protruding block into corner. Finish up the prow or exit left.
Sy	Scurvy	13	18m	1.02
	The Left Crack past nose. At small bulge below nose, go right to monkey poop, then left back to crack. Bridge past nose, move right and finish on the left hand of the two deep cracks.
MP	Monkee Poop	13	18m	1.02
	Smooth rock near the bottom becomes more inviting under a small but prominent nose. Climb up one side or other of the nose, continue up either a narrow slab or an adjacent crack.
	Blankety Blank	24		0
	The Steep Wall, with no pro. Tony Burnell '98
	Banalarama	24	18m	0	2
	Steep and scaly wall 5m right of MP. Left side of large scoop below the overhangs, thin crack through roof to the right. Run out but pleasant enough. Dave Fearnley 1988
	Waives the Rules	23		0
	Climbs the weakness up the RHS of the Banalarama slab, then up the overhanging corner with thin crack Alan Hill, 1999
PC	Penile Decay	23	18m	1.02	2
	Right side of the scoop, past 2 bolts, over bulge and up overhanging headwall. Flaky rock. Steve Elder '89
GG	Galley Gulley	16	15m	1.02
	Climb up into the vee chimney, bridge and chimney to exit right onto the upper wall. Continue to the top. Good protection.
	Anchors Away	22		0
	Wall and scoop left of a Bridge too Far then up short crack to easier ground. Alan Hill, 1999
B2F	The Bridge Too Far	22	16m	0
	Climb easily up into the groove, then bridge up to the roof. Continue bridging and exit with difficulty on to the top wall. Adequate protection. John Howard '78
Sr	Spinnaker	18	16m	0
	Formerly known as Greasy Joan. Start up a thin crack angling R with marginal wires to the scoop, then steeply on jugs to a ledge. - an easier variation goes R to the arete. Continue up easier ground over a small bulge to a slab and up. Lindsay Main' 79
	Whose Turn In The Barrell?	16	18m	0
	Irregular rib with a Bulge. Climb arete to ledge & finish as for Spinnaker. Lindsay Main 1979
F	Forecourse	15	18m	1.02
	Climb the corner at the left end of a ledge until the corner runs out. Ignore the easy finish off left, move up across a shallow hollow to the right. Continue straight up to the top.
MR	Main Royale	17	18m	2.01
	Classic climb with good pro. Climb the face directly upwards, following the intermittent crack to the Rh facing corner, then exit L-wards onto ledge. Sound gear. and great climb despite the earthquake damage.
Ya	Yardarm	18	18m	0
	The corner crack on the right hand side of the M.R wall. Can be pointed out because of the useless piton right at the start. Climb the corner for 5 metres with good pro. Once you reach the fractured new rock (Result of seismic activity) the gear runs out, the climbing gets harder and it gets quite spicy.
	Strawberry Box	17		0
	Climb the corner, move right onto the wall, then move up with some difficulty to gain a niche. Continue up the easier top section Graham Dingle 1971
Mn	Mizzen	18	18m	1.02
	Climb the rib on small holds (hard, very poor pro). Then up and into the chimney. Climb the chimney on to the ledge, then easy climbing to the top out. Varied climbing. Good protection once you are in the chimney. An easier start more in keeping with the rest of the climb would be the jam crack on the left.
	Brown Tongue	22	17m	0
	The brown pillar right of Yardarm. No pro. Tony Burnell '99
FW	Freakey's Wall	22		1.02			2
	Climb the wall at the left of B & S ledge. Place gear in the cavity/hole before the crux at half height. Small run-out after that to good gear before trending right and up the faint crack. Good gear but some of it is far apart. John Allen 1980
B&S	Body and Soul	19	18m	1.02		²	2
	Start on the small foot ledge down and left. Work your way right then up to the bulbous ledge. Step left off the ledge and up through the overhang to the big hole, gain the crack and charge to the top. Good pro. Gavin Wills 1967
DR	Dr Rock and the Carbo Kid	20	16m	0
	Climb up the pillar beneath the roof. Follow the good pro. Dave Macleod 1988
Bl	Bilge	15	15m	0
	Thrutch up the chimney, or swing up with technique. A traverse to the left using a horizontal crack leads to an easier groove between the big overhang on the left and the block on the right.
FJ	Flying Jib	14	17m	1.02			1
	Starts at a lower level, climb the steep wall and gain the groove. Climb up the crack moving right near the top. Good protection

File attachments:

Rapaki Rock [Rev C].pdf

Attribution:

Information by Lindsay Main & Previously hosted on website by John Davis

This place appears in

Port Hills Climbing

1998

South Island Rock

2004

UUID:

c86bd73f-8fc7-4aad-967a-1f9aecaeb61f

Comments

Copy of rev C of my local

Permalink Submitted by climber53 on Mon, 20/05/2019 - 17:02

Copy of rev C of my local guide, please download and use, please do not upload to climbing webistes

Hi Greg, To back up cragrat

Permalink Submitted by clayton on Fri, 27/03/2015 - 19:31

Hi Greg,
To back up cragrat -Rapaki is a trad crag and has always been so with lots of blocks at the top to set trad anchors( slings, wires, hexes etc ).
The remedial work has been done and its as safe as it ever will be for a Christchurch Crag !
There are some fantastic beginners climbs on the left end and although severly damaged by the earthquakes, in the middle - 'Main Royale' and 'Yardarm' are still really good climbs.
As with all crags pre earthquakes in Christchurch, its just a matter of checking those holds a little more than one would in the past.
Happy climbing !

I went to have a look today

Permalink Submitted by GregH on Fri, 13/03/2015 - 19:40

I went to have a look today at this. All top anchors have been removed and there are no bolts that i could see unless i just missed them. Seems to be a lot of earthquake damage and does kinda look unsafe… shame really because it is just off the summit road.

Hi Greg Not quite sure what

Permalink Submitted by cragrat on Sat, 14/03/2015 - 12:09

Hi Greg
Not quite sure what you mean by "all top anchors have been removed" as Rapaki has never had fixed anchors and has very few bolted routes. The crag has been remediated several times both by council funded rope access team working on a threat area above the northern access and experienced climbers. By all accounts from those climbing on it it's ok and just needs treating like an alpine crag but is generally pretty good.

(30 routes)