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Methven Dread

OPEN: Access is subject to conditions.
Updated 15 January 2025, by Richard Thomson.

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Grade
16
Length
195m
0
Natural pro required
Quality
2.01
First ascent
Michael Eatson, Tawny Wagstaff, Trev Ponting, April 2016
Located on
Mt Arrowsmith

A good route and much easier than initially expected. Starts left of the central slabs. Plenty of variation exists.

  • P1
  • 16
  • 50m
  • Trad

Climb out of the 'schrund up left facing corner to obvious hand crack on face. Step right around corner at horizontal feature, then back left to avoid roof. Belay in diagonal groove.

  • P2
  • 16
  • 45m
  • Trad

Continue along grove aiming for the top right corner of roof to belay.

  • P3
  • 14
  • 40m
  • Trad

Through roof onto face and up to belay in large blocky corner.

  • P4
  • 15
  • 60m
  • Trad

Follow prow to the top.

Comments
Michael Eatson

Cheers! It was some fine rock indeed. I'll be interested to see the photo if you find it. Planning on doing a talk for the CMC in June about some of the climbing in this area.

Tue, 26/04/2016 - 11:00 Permalink
cragrat
content_editor

I'm glad you finally did this. It was something Jonathon Morgan wanted us to go and do before he was killed in an avalanche. He had tempted us with pictures of that fine red rock. We were going to do a heli visit mind you.... whether this is the line he envisaged I'm not sure - will try and dig out the picture he had whoch only showed the lower rock.

Sat, 23/04/2016 - 07:31 Permalink
UUID
 
40bbde32-125d-4403-80ef-e9eeb24ed900