Located on Cass Peak- Port Hills
Bolted sports climbs.
5.2 kilometres south of the Sign of the Kiwi junction.
Two routes below the radar tower (The Sphere).
Climbing Notes:
It is very difficult to get to the base of this cliff without abseiling. There is a lot of gorse at the top and more at the bottom. The base of cliff only has room for 3-4 people max. There is a good chance of snagging your rope if you try to pull it from the Radar O’Rielly anchor on large horns. A 60 meter may not reach from lower anchor either. You can pull you shoes up on the fixed rope when you finish.
Off summit road. Best access is to park opposite locked gate access to sealed entrance to Airways sphere. Walk up sealed road beyond locked black gate. Where the drive switchbacks to sphere, walk straight ahead at the wooden guard rail and find the 2 bolt anchor on a high solid rock. Fix a 40 meter rope from here. There is a double bolt belay approx. 6 meters lower. From this anchor, throw the fixed rope down towards Governors Bay (ie not road). The rope should run down the route (Radar O’Rielly). It is very difficult to get to the base of this cliff without abseiling.
Left most route looking up. Climb easy shattered/mossy rock to 1st bolt. Move up thru steep steps. At 4th bolt, (difficult) move right and up into overhanging groove to 5th bolt. Clip 6th bolt, and make crux layback/mantle moves to stance at 2 bolt belay. A bit of everything on this one. Recommend various length quick draws on this route so rope end carabiners hang free of obstructions. Lower off or traverse right to following route then up and right to top of cliff.
Middle route, while looking up. Steep face climbing to start past 3 close bolts. Move leftwards then up easier climbing. At the 7th bolt, balance out right to hidden bolt. The crux is moving above this bolt, then leftwards out of this upper section. Steep, reachy holds thru to notch at left, the top and 2 bolt anchor. This route still needs an “on sight”, and grade confirmation. Some holds have been reinforced. It is possible to connect to the top of cliff passing a bolt with chain link hanger on easy climbing to top of “R.O.”
The right hand line has been cleaned and follows 8 bolts up center of buttress. 1st bolt has a length of chain. Difficult mantle start, and great climbing with crux 2/3rd up. 3 more bolts lead to top of cliff.
Comments
SimonCourtois56
New route on left hand end of crag.
"Sky Pilot" 19. 6 bolts and anchor. Climb a series of steep steps up left edge. Short difficult sections with rests in between. Aleksandra Natalia and Simon Courtois , October 2018
Nice routes, each of them quite fun. Grades seem about right to me, kicked a good size chunk off Ground Control, but didn't take any crucial holds I think!
There are 3 routes not 2 (my typo). Also the entry gate that used to be black, is now a burly galvanized version. I look forward to hearing what people think of these climbs.
New route on left hand end of crag.
"Sky Pilot" 19. 6 bolts and anchor. Climb a series of steep steps up left edge. Short difficult sections with rests in between. Aleksandra Natalia and Simon Courtois , October 2018
Nice routes, each of them quite fun. Grades seem about right to me, kicked a good size chunk off Ground Control, but didn't take any crucial holds I think!
There are 3 routes not 2 (my typo). Also the entry gate that used to be black, is now a burly galvanized version. I look forward to hearing what people think of these climbs.