The first wall that is approached from the road
NB Climbs are described in the opposite order from how you find them.
Routes
Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Alert | Operations |
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Frank's Wild Years, 22 | 22 | 3 | |||||
This route was destroyed in the 13 June earthquake A few metres L, go up the crooked corner. 3 bolts and other pro. Rather scary. |
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True Grit, 20 | 20 | ||||||
A corner with a roof a few metres up and another at the top. Committing moves through the first roof (crux), then easily up the corner and top roof. Natural pro. |
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Loose Grits, 21 | 21 | 3 | |||||
Another crack with an undercut start. Up over the roofs on decaying rock past three bolts with chain links, with dynamic moves to reach anything that might stay on. Continue up the crack, watching for loose holds. Not highly recommended. Joe Arts '98 |
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Gravel Pit, 18 | 18 | 1 | |||||
Obvious crack line two metres left. Steep bouldery start past a large hold to a bolt with links, then easily up the crack with CDs to a double anchor chain. Very loose. Joe Arts '98 |
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Tightening The Noose, 20 | 20 | 2 | |||||
Start directly below a trucated hanging groove, just left of the arete. Up on small holds to wire placements in a small crack; then rightward past a bolt with hanger and up the groove. Finish up the arete right of the vegetation past another bolt and belay at the chain on top of Sideshow. Lindsay Main '98 |
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Speckled Jim, 13 | 13 | ||||||
The rather obvious deep cleft. Soloed back around 1978 but claimed and named more recently by Gavin Tweedie. Phil Stuart-Jones '78 |
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Teen Angel, 19 | 19 | 4 | |||||
Start on good rock directly below Sideshow to gain crack (small wires). Turn the overhang on the left to climb the wall (crux at first bolt) going straight up to the top. There's pro behind a possibly loose block near the top. Watch for loose holds. Marcus Thomas '95 |
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Sideshow, 18 | 18 | 3 | |||||
Starting R of a small roof, move up the square overhanging face above. Three bolts and a rap chain. Simon Middlemass |
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The Adventures of Roger the Horse, 20 | 20 | 2 | |||||
2 new bolts(1 lower down) and a 2 chain anchor. Take large cams or even hexes for the crack. |
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Winnie the Rooster, 17 | 17 | 4 | |||||
Jenny the Hun is best abandoned while Winnie the Orifice and Rooster Booster has become Winnie the Rooster 17 with 4 bolts and its own ring and chain. This seems to be the safest bit of rock around these 3 old climbs. |
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Super Gold Card, 22 | 22 | 5 | |||||
Up the flake and blank crack. 5 bolts with a chain and ring on the anchor. Conceived and bolted by Kev with his bolts, grabbed by John when offered the chance. Great moves. |
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Dead Rabbits, 20 | 20 | 4 | |||||
The yellow wall 2m left of Keep 1080. Four new bolts have been moved right a bit and all are easy to clip. Go straight up right of nose to new DB anchor. |
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Keep 1080, 18 | 18 | 1 | |||||
The corner crack with a bolt near the top. Good protection and good moves. DBA. Joe Arts '95 |
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Rat or Two'ey, 21 | 21 | 3 | |||||
Start as for Rat Race but at the second bolt continue up the left slanting crack (CD's) to an existing bolt with link after the bolt at the apex of the cracks move up into a sentry box then out left to a lower off. Tony Burnell '97 |
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RR | RRRat Race, 24 | 24 | 4 | ||||
Start at some ledges just left of the start of "Ride on Time", up the easy ledges (BR) to gain the base of a diagonal hanging crack near a bush (BR) move up the crack then move out right onto the face to the third (BR). Sequency face climbing past the third and fourth (BR)to a bolt belay at the top left side of the wall. Steeper than it looks. |
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RoT | RoTRide On Time, 22 | 22 | 2 | ||||
The first smooth (grey) wall. Bolts and wire(s). |
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BEG | BEGBlue Eyed Girl, 22 | 22 | 3 | ||||
Start a metre left of Car Culture. Double chain anchor. |
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CC | CCCar Culture, 18 | 18 | 8m | 3 | |||
The first significant wall with a crack in the top half. 3 bolts so no ground fall potential. 2 new bolts plus 3 hangers and new chain at the top. Pro good above 3rd bolt |
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Share The Road, 19 | 19 | 4 | |||||
Car Culture starts up the wall and then takes the crack with cams left of the bolts. The route to its right is "Share the Road" which uses the bolts of CC but climbs the wall on its right near the arete to a fourth bolt. |
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Snooze Ya Loose, 22 | 22 | 17m | 6 | ||||
Located to the left of Seismic Activity. The first bolt is a chain link. Sloped jugs/crimps make up most of the climb, although the two crux's use sneaky side-pulls. Be aware of some loose flakes to the left of the climb. Twin Ring anchor. |
Prior to the June earthquake Farm park was looking like one of the surviving crags on the Port Hills. After the quake a section of about 30 m long starting left of Sideshow area collapsed