2. NZ
  3. South Island
  4. Banks Peninsula
  5. Crystal Clearlight

Crystal Clearlight

(20 routes)

Excellent hard jamming can be had at Crystal Clearlight. A good day's outing can be had by combining classics on the two of them. The cliffs are on the west side of the spur which runs down to Diamond Harbour from Herbert Peak. The cliffs are close together, just below the top of the spur, overlooking Charteris Bay. The Fantasy Factory is the larger, more obvious cliff; Crystal Clearlight is a small overhanging cliff about 300m further south, climbers left of a faint gully. Easy access from above.
The cliffs are sheltered from easterly winds.
History
Mike Franklin contributed Black Bitch (16).
Crystal Clearlight also received attention from visitors, with Murray Judge contributing several climbs, and in 1976 Rick McGregor repeated the existing hard routes and added some more. In 1979-80, John Howard contributed the hardest routes on the cliff, *Hopping up the Mild Side (23)
Climbing Notes
Descent routes at each cliff are simply around either end of the cliff.

Type: 
Crag
Altitude: 
350m
Aspect: 
West
Walk time: 
25 min
Access: 

Permission must be granted from two sources!
1. The owner of the land the crag is on - Zac Kyle. Please text 027 604 1485, and only proceed once you have a reply.
2. The owner of the land you cross between Doris Faigan Lane and the crag - Peter Nel. Text 021 223 4478.

Please keep the traffic light!!! One car with 4 people is a lot less intrusive than 4 cars with 4 people. (Pool your cars at Diamond Harbour).
Park Considerately! Please leave enough room for a tractor to go past into the neighbouring paddock, and do not attempt to drive beyond the water tanks.

No access during September, as it is lambing season.

Walk through from the public road, don't drive.

The usual rules should be observed - leave gates as you found them, no fires or sources of ignition and leave your dogs at home!

New Zealand map

Map, Topo

Lat/Lon: 
-43.656290000000, 172.725390000000
NZMS260: 
M36 878283
Topo50: 
BX24 778 667
@@@@@@
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
GN Goodbat Nightman 17 17m
1.02
 wire representing trad
Start at the R-hand of two cracks and climb up on jugs. Exit through the roof. Sustained.
Murray Judge '75
Aardvark 20 12m
1.02
The steep wall. Finish L . No pro, sustained.
Bill Atkinson
Rd Rottcod 20 17m
1.02
 wire representing trad
Up the steep weakness. The crux is an awkward and committing move into the R-leaning off-width.
Rick McGregor '76
FW Fancy Woman 12 15m
0
 wire representing trad
Mike Franklin '75
The corner. Awkward at the top.
Dt Daunt 22 17m
1.02
 wire representing trad
The L-hand of two corners in a recess. Up overhanging rock past two sets of horizontal jugs to good holds above.
John Allen '80
TT Tobias Treetime 13 15m
0
 wire representing trad
Jam up a steep crack to a sloping ledge (crux). From the ledge continue R-wards. Eats big gear.
Rick McGregor '76
4A The Four Beasts of the Apocalypse 21 17m
1.02
 wire representing trad
The R-hand corner. Awkward moves R into the hanging groove, then traverse R to finish up Tibrogargan.
John Howard '80
Tn Tibrogargan 21 17m
1.02
 wire representing trad
The steep, shallow, R-leaning crack on the small arete. Exit R from the crack then back L and up the wall.
Rick McGregor '76
Hobo's Blues 22 17m
0
 wire representing trad
Climb Paranoia Blues for a few feet, then move out L to a groove. From the ledge finish out L up Tibrogargan.
John Allen '80
PB Paranoia Blues 19 17m
1.02
 wire representing trad
The thin, overhanging crack. Most people have bridged to Bentley Jam Machine. Finish up B.J.M..
Rick McGregor '76
BM Bentley Jam Machine 17 18m
2.01
 wire representing trad
The prominent crack. Off-width at start (crux), followed by good jamming. Exit directly through the roof (18), or to the L (may be inhabited by a rat nest).
Daryll Thomson '75
Death or Glory 20 18m
0
Up the wall between B.J.M. and Dreamtree Sequence. No pro.
Brent Davis
DS Dreamtree Sequence 16 18m
1.02
 wire representing trad
Up a wall and shallow chimney (crux), and then the crack through the roof.
Murray Judge '75
Gw Gladwrap 15 18m
2.01
 wire representing trad
The prominent chimney
Mike Franklin '75
Hopping up the Mild Side 23 15m
1.02
 wire representing trad
This is possibly the worst name in the book. A steep fingery wall, with a good old traditional spike runner.
John Howard '80
BB Black Bitch 16 17m
3
 wire representing trad
A classic route with good jamming. The steep jam crack on black rock, starting at the fence. Hardest at the top.
Mike Franklin '75
ST Silk Torpedo 15 17m
1.02
 wire representing trad
Start at a thin crack on the wall. Take care not to lift the pro out. Move R to finish, or exit directly (16).
Tim Wethey '75
Acrylic Toupee 18 15m
0
 wire representing trad
Up the arete all the way.
John Barnes
TH T. Hex 16 15m
0
 wire representing trad
Climb the chimney for 4m, then traverse R beneath the nose (crux). Continue straight up.
Murray Judge '75
CA Curved Air 18 15m
1.02
 wire representing trad
The jam crack through the curving bulge. Either finish L, or directly up the steep crack (18).
John Barnett did the start ('75)
Attribution: 
Information by Lindsay Main; Previously hosted on website by John Davis. Updated by Ruari Macfarlane 2021

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UUID: 
a98d15e1-9f98-4924-b63f-b24a5b571bc0

Comments

grubbie's picture

Submitted by grubbie on Tue, 03/05/2016 - 18:10

Please note access changes, above.