Excellent hard jamming can be had at Crystal Clearlight. A good day's outing can be had by combining classics on the two of them. The cliffs are on the west side of the spur which runs down to Diamond Harbour from Herbert Peak. The cliffs are close together, just below the top of the spur, overlooking Charteris Bay. The Fantasy Factory is the larger, more obvious cliff; Crystal Clearlight is a small overhanging cliff about 300m further south, climbers left of a faint gully. Easy access from above.
The cliffs are sheltered from easterly winds.
History
Mike Franklin contributed Black Bitch (16).
Crystal Clearlight also received attention from visitors, with Murray Judge contributing several climbs, and in 1976 Rick McGregor repeated the existing hard routes and added some more. In 1979-80, John Howard contributed the hardest routes on the cliff, *Hopping up the Mild Side (23)
Climbing Notes
Descent routes at each cliff are simply around either end of the cliff.
Permission must be granted from two sources!
1. The owner of the land the crag is on - Zac Kyle. Please text 027 604 1485, and only proceed once you have a reply.
2. The owner of the land you cross between Doris Faigan Lane and the crag - Peter Nel. Text 021 223 4478.
Please keep the traffic light!!! One car with 4 people is a lot less intrusive than 4 cars with 4 people. (Pool your cars at Diamond Harbour).
Park Considerately! Please leave enough room for a tractor to go past into the neighbouring paddock, and do not attempt to drive beyond the water tanks.
No access during September, as it is lambing season.
Walk through from the public road, don't drive.
The usual rules should be observed - leave gates as you found them, no fires or sources of ignition and leave your dogs at home!
Routes
Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Operations |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
TH | T. Hex | 16 | 15m | |||
GN | Goodbat Nightman | 17 | 17m | |||
Rd | Rottcod | 20 | 17m | |||
Dt | Daunt | 22 | 17m | |||
4A | The Four Beasts of the Apocalypse | 21 | 17m | |||
Tn | Tibrogargan | 21 | 17m | |||
Hobo's Blues | 22 | 17m | ||||
PB | Paranoia Blues | 19 | 17m | |||
BM | Bentley Jam Machine | 17 | 18m | |||
DS | Dreamtree Sequence | 16 | 18m | |||
Gw | Gladwrap | 15 | 18m | |||
Hopping up the Mild Side | 23 | 15m | ||||
BB | Black Bitch | 16 | 17m | |||
ST | Silk Torpedo | 15 | 17m | |||
Acrylic Toupee | 18 | 15m | ||||
CA | Curved Air | 18 | 15m | |||
FW | Fancy Woman | 12 | 15m | |||
TT | Tobias Treetime | 13 | 15m | |||
Aardvark | 20 | 12m | ||||
Death or Glory | 20 | 18m |
Please note access changes, above.