The outcrops tucked away in the hills behind Waipu have potential to develop into a pretty decent climbing area, but unfortunately most of the areas that have been developed are on private land where access is currently forbidden.
Cavers and climbers, including Phil Giles, had been visiting the area during the 1970s and 1980s, but it wasn’t until Alan Hill made a determined effort in the early 1990s that a number of routes were climbed and recorded. Hamish Pirie and Steve Wylie did more in early 1996.
Climbing notes
The rock is limestone, and usually has solid natural pro placements. New routes would likely require bolting. In summer the valley gets pretty hot, so take plenty of water.
Most of the routes described here are on the "Cave Wall".
Most of the routes here are pretty mossy but should improve with traffic. There are more lines to be climbed but will likely require bolting and cleaning.
All routes have natural pro and tree belays.
The cave entrance area is in a Whangarei District Council-adminstered reserve. From Whangarei, head south on State Highway 1 for about 12 km, then take Springfield Road. Follow this for about 22 km till the Waipu Caves Road junction is reached. Turn left and follow for about 8 km eventually winding down a hill into a broad valley. Look for a reserve sign on your left , marking the access to the main cave. Alternately, from Waipu, take Shoemaker Road for 15 min, turning left into Waipu Caves Road.
Routes
Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Operations |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Zeus | 14 | 10m | ||||
Catacombe | 16 | 10m | ||||
Bungle In The Jungle | 17 | 12m | ||||
Mudslime Slim | 14 | 10m | ||||
Possum Groove | 12 | 12m | ||||
Troglodyte Wall | 16 | 15m | ||||
Murphy | 13 | 13m | ||||
Pluto | 14 | 12m |
The land that many of the cliffs are on, the "Waipu Cave Estate" is currently up for sale as 12 lots. An interesting opportunity when it comes to access.
I remember going on a scout trip to a more hidden cave called Schweppes. I was wondering if you knew anything else about as it was one of my favorite experiences.