This is the first cliff reached after climbing down the rocky step in the track and rounding the corner.
For some climbs anchors may be hard to find and are sometimes well back from the cliff edge. There is one set of bolt anchors (above Transmogrification). For the first few routes anchor to a large boulder. Trad routes in particular are likely to be a little loose.
Routes
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Operations |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Pigs In Muck, 16 | 16 |  |
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On the small face, following intermittent cracks, then scramble up the arete rightward to the anchor boulder. Good protection. |
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| Black Sheep, 13 | 13 | |
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Narrow chimney and wide leaning crack beside the arête. . |
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| Chicken Run, 19 | 19 | |
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Start a metre right of the wide crack and boulder up the face. Place protection and make the crux move past a smooth section on to the upper face and an easy finish. Mostly good protection. |
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| BB | BBBig Boar, 18 | 18 | 3 |
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Thin crack a metre right, through lichenous rock. Only hard in the first few metres. 3 bolts to DBA The first bolted climb. Med cams useful to protect an easy runout above the last bolt. |
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| Happy Landings, 22 | 22 | 2 |
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Unprotected start directly over the small triangular roof at two metres and on to the wall, then cruise up using the upper two bolts of Yellow Splendour. |
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| YS | YSYellow Splendour, 17 | 17 | 3 |
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The first bolted route. Start just left of Kingfisher and boulder up to the first bolt on small holds, then more positive moves leftward to the second bolt, and finish slightly right up the left side of the arete. Three bolts. 3 bolts to BB anchor |
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| Kf | KfKingfisher, 17 | 17 | 1 |
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Prominent corner with a roof halfway up which is passed on the right; then move slightly right to exit. A pleasant route with good jugs and adequate protection. Anchor at the large boulder. now has a bolt to protect the crux and a DBA |
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| Elephant Beer, 19 | 19 | 2 |
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Starts just right of the obvious corner taken by Kingfisher’. Climb the slabby wall to the overlap, cam in groove, move up and left into the subsidiary groove. Follow this to the roof. Bridge up and over the roof to the second bolt. Continue straight up the steep head wall to finish. . |
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| GL | GLGorilla At Large, 21 | 21 | 2 |
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The wall and arete right of Kingfisher. Start as for Kingfisher and move right on to the slab below the overhang. Clip the bolt and turn the roof using holds to the right. Climb the arete above past another bolt and good natural protection. has a direct start with a bolt and shares the anchor with the previous climb |
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| Where's My Gorilla?, 19 | 19 | 3 |
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Start as for the previous route, but at the first bolt traverse right past a good wire placement and gain the slabby undercut wall. Move up on good holds past another bolt and wire until holds lead left and up to the top. has a direct start with 2 bolts plus an extra bolt and DBA |
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| WB | WBWine And Beer It, 16 | 16 | 10m | 4 |
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A few metres right of Kingfisher is a broken corner with a roof two metres up. Start below the right end of the roof and traverse left under the bulging arete (crux), then continue up the groove to the left of the arete, tending left at the top. Double-bolt anchor. |
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| RC | RCRinging The Change, 19 | 19 | 11m | 4 |
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Start as for WB to the first bolt, but continue up the groove on the right of the arete to the 2nd bolt. Trend right through the overlap past the 3rd bolt to join Transmogrification at its top bolt, and share its anchor. |
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| Tf | TfTransmogrification, 19 | 19 | 11m | 4 |
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Climbs the centre of the prominent wall capped by an overhang. The overlap now has a bolt and no longer requires natural pro. After the 2nd bolt, trend leftwards through the bulge to good holds at the 3rd bolt, then slightly right and follow a faint crack up the overhanging headwall. Now has a two-bolt anchor at the top; original anchor was in a boulder about 5m back. |
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| The Quiet Earth, 21 | 21 | |
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A dodgy proposition. Start up the steepening wall a metre left of the corner, move slightly left at the bulge, and finish at the top crack. Minimal natural protection, very loose. |
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| Rd | RdRabid, 15 | 15 | |
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pro corner to DBA |
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| Rk | RkRockadile, 15 | 15 | 1 |
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face crack with pro to DBA |
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| MP | MPMount Pheasant Plucker, 17 | 17 | 1 |
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Three metres right of Rabid is a wall with an incipient crack starting halfway up. Good climbing on positive holds, and adequate protection. borrows a bolt off climb on R and 1 of its own to pro and DBA |
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| BB | BBBig Borrowed Boots, 18 | 18 | 4 |
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4 bolts up wall to DBA |
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| Call Of Duty, 11 | 11 | |
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A few metres right among the bush lawyer is this soloed route up a crack leading to a broken wall. Dirty and loose, no anchors. |
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| Marcus's Climb, 16 | 16 | |
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The broad arete. Good wires low down lead to moves on rounded holds and poor protection. Not a sport climb. |
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| Micro, 12 | 12 | |
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Around the arête is this short right-facing corner-crack. Having good climbing with plenty of protection, this route is well suited to beginners. Cam anchors. |
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| R | RRockweiller, 19 | 19 | |
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A short wall two metres right, with a crack leading leftward. Use it for protection initially and then place a wire in the crack to the right near the arête. Loose rock adds to the excitement, though the gear is OK. At this grade finish up the wall directly. (It's easier if you move right to the arête). |
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| MGA | MGAM.A.D. Goes Ape, 18 | 18 | 2 |
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Around the arête is a wide crack to the left of the shrubbery. Clip the bolt near the arête, then move slightly right toward the second bolt and straight up to the top. Cam anchors. |
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Images
Description for "Elephant Beer" seems wrong (or is in the wrong place?), since it doesn't match the location.