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Sinbad Gully Wall

Type
Altitude
1060m
Part of

The Sinbad Gully Wall is about 300 metres high, most of which is overhanging.

Image
Aspect
North East
Lat/lon
POINT (167.80363 -44.64323)
Topo50
CB08 879 435
Access

Initial ascents of this wall were accessed via helicopter from Milford Sound.
Approach
Walk up Sinbad Gully: good DOC track on the left side of the river (3-4 hours).
Scramble up the slabs on the left side of the waterfalls until you reach a very steep, unclimbable section. Go left here into the bush below a big boulder block, and then climb straight up a steep spur through the bush until you get out of the forest. Always keep close to the right arête. From where you can already see Sinbad Wall traverse right just above a big scree field. Climb up and down a few times to avoid steep rocky bits on the traverse. Cross 3 rivers and find the bivvy block (helicopter landing place). All in all, app 9-10 h. (With LIGHT packs)
Hike out
Abseil down the canyon: 5-6 abseils on bolts; looking down the canyon always on the right side of the wall. Expect to get wet feet
Descend down the creek at the south facing wall of the Sinbad until you get into the canyon. Only after a bit of down scrambling, the first rappel is on the right side (always looking down) of the big rock at a big obvious drop.
Rappel down 35m to the right across a water stream that comes from above. Look 5m to your left along a small ledge for the next rappel
Abseil 55m into the next basin.
Scramble down on the left side of the canyon to the next drop. Cross the stream (to the right) and climb onto a bloc with a hidden bolt behind it.
Rappel 15m, traverse a few meter to next bolt and rappel again for 20m.
A little bit of downclimbing on a big block in the middle of the canyon and squeezing along the left hand side of the canyon gets you over the next big pool onto a few big boulders.
Climb about 15m on the right side along a slightly upwards tending step to a small ledge. About 10m above that is a bomber nut with a red sling and carabiner which we left behind. We downclimbed a crack feature from the small ledge and lowered off our backpacks. (probably there is a bolt somewhere as well, which we couldn’t find.)
Downclimb 2 boulderblocs. Cross the waterstream to the right side and traverse about 20m along a rail which opens into a ledge to the next bolt.
Rappel down over the waterfall to the next bloc in the next basin AND the basin below that. (don’t stop on the first level)
Climb out of the canyon on rails on the left side wall.
Walk down the scree to the head of the Sinbad Valley. Either maneuver through the waterfalls and slopes to get back to the big boulder (approach) or much faster but less obvious: Go 20m up back to the ridge into the steep forest spur. Traverse about 50m in and then head downwards. Eventually you get back on the track from the approach and back to the big boulder (Took us 10 mins with a bit of luck. Good luck ;) Allow 5 more hours from here (with heavy packs) back out valley on Doc track.
Bid’s Bungalow
Bid’s Bungalow is located high in the boulder field on the right-hand side of the upper cirque. It provides shelter in the upper valley for two.
Descent off the Wall
Do not underestimate the walk off the top of the cirque wall. From tussock slopes head east to the large lake, traversing round the southern end. Climb onto the slabs below Llawrenny’s High Peak, traversing to the ridge that drops into the Sinbad Gully cirque. Descend broken rock slabs into a steep gully on the northern side of the ridge until a level terrace is gained. Traverse round this to regain the ridge and descend 150m before dropping back into the cirque. Approximately four to five hours travel.

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
1 Te Hamo 31 174m 5
3
2 Weather Spell 30 270m
3
3 Shadowland 27
3
4 Drop Zone 24,A1 300m
3
4.5 Welcome to Sinbad (First 4-5 pitches of Drop Zone) 21 140m
3
5 Rainmaker 23 262m 8
3
Sinbad Wall Descent Route
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Images

Comments
Danilo Hegg

We climbed the Llawrenny Peaks on New Year's day, walking in from Milford Sound via the access route described above. We found the route description to be inadequate, and were wondering, was this written by someone who actually walked it? Or maybe by someone who used it to walk out, but not in?
Here are a few comments:
- The track up the Sinbad is on the true right, not on the true left.
- The 'bush covered rib' requires some intense scrub bashing. If walking up valley, this route will take much of two days (not 8 hours!) because of the dense vegetation.
- 'It levels out to a terrace which can be followed south into the hanging valley' - no the terrace is not continuous. From where the spur levels out, it's a steep descent down a rocky gully to the terrace. We opted to abseil in the vegetation on the true right of the gully. On the way back, we scrambled up the gully, which is easy enough, but dangerous due to some very rotten rock.
Our times (carrying packs with camping and climbing gear): Sinbad River mouth to campsite at head of valley, 6hrs; valley head to basin below Sinbad Wall, 8hrs

Tue, 10/01/2012 - 13:47 Permalink
UUID
 
416a599a-e8c9-49c9-8741-d4b5e8a97910