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Golden Hind

Natural pro required
First ascent
Peter Dickson, Carol McDermott
Located on

Starts on the slabby buttress (as for Samurai) and climbs the line of least resistance up corners and cracks on the left side of the Pelican Buttress.
From the Crows Nest Ledge climb the prow, turning difficulties on the left.

  • P1
  • 19
  • Alpine (Technical) 6+
  • Alpine (Commitment) IV
  • 400m
  • Trad


It would be good if you could add the route lengths Peter K Dickson.

Sun, 07/01/2024 - 10:27 Permalink
Peter Dickson

In reply to by cragrat

Thanks for adding this route to the database Simon. I don't remember where we began the climb Golden Hind except after two 50m rope pitches we gained an obvious rubbly ledge to witness the Pelican arete rising directly above us to the challenging roof it shares with the Memorial route which ascends a classic corner to the right
My partner decided to avoid the arete and roof by turning them on the left side of that central buttress. There was some excellent finger crack climbing at grade 19. The rock was so good it ate up all my gear and so I did a hanging belay just off one small Friend, perhaps a size 1.5. My partner was unwilling to lead the next pitch even though I'd backed it up with another small Friend so we juggled protection and I led the 4th pitch to the Crows Nest ledge. After that it was a scramble. We avoided all the small buttresses on the the central arete by turning them on the left.
We descended via downclimbing the Bamaphone route.

Sun, 07/01/2024 - 15:07 Permalink
Aoraki Tai Poutini, Frost