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The Shelf

Type
Part of

The shelf is an obvious ledge about 25 metres long, with a roof a few metres above the ledge running the entire length. Below the crag is an area of flax.

Image
Aspect
West
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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
 Think Pink, 21 21 4
0

  • P1
  • 21
  • 4

Starts at the very left end of the Shelf, just left of a corner and below an obvious roof. The route climbs the roof and the blunt arête with the pink lichen patches. Climb straight up to the second bolt, move left around the roof and on to the wall, and then back right to the third bolt on the arête (take care). Climb up onto easier ground to a single bolt anchor. Four bolts. .


TS TSTop Shelf, 19 19 3
0

  • P1
  • 19
  • 3

Climbs the black wall at the left side of the shelf. Clip the first bolt and pull on to the wall, with nice climbing to the third bolt on the right. Easy moves (a bit lichenous) to the lowering bolt.


SL SLShelf Life, 20 20 3
0

  • P1
  • 20
  • 3

Just right. Clip the first bolt and pull through the small roof on to the wall. Finish as for the previous route. Three bolts.


FL FLFootloose, 23 23 3
0

  • P1
  • 23
  • 3

Up vague leaning groove. Leave ledge and pull into groove on small holds, and continue easily onto BA


Bs BsBliss, 26 26 3
0

  • P1
  • 26
  • 3

Powerful climbing over the roof left of The Big C. Definitely a short sharp shock.


BC BCThe Big C, 25 25 6
2.01

  • P1
  • 25
  • 6

Starts under the big roof. Hard climbing to the third bolt over the lip. Move up and left to the fourth bolt. Climb more easily up the wall above to a hidden bolt. From the fifth bolt move up, then back right to the last bolt on Off The Shelf, and up to the same anchor. As the first bolt is low, a bouldering mat could be a good idea. .


OS OSOff The Shelf, 22 22 4
1.02

  • P1
  • 22
  • 4

Start at the right-hand end of the shelf and boulder up the wall to a good hold and the first bolt. Using the pinch grip above pull over the bulge on to the wall. Continue easily up good rock to a single ring lower off. Four bolts.


 The Unclimbed Crack, 19 19
0

  • P1
  • 19
  • Trad

Start immediately right of Off The Shelf, climbing the right side of the obvious crack through an initial bulge. At the hanging garden move right on to the steep wall and pull through on good holds to the anchors on Legends In The Baking. Good protection, but spaced and a bit odd on the upper wall.


 Revived 45, 22 22 4
0

  • P1
  • 22
  • 4

Along the crag is a shelf with a horizontal roof along it’s full length. Starts at the right-hand end of the shelf just left of the un-climbed crack, which is just right of Legends in the Baking. Boulder up the wall to a good hold and the first bolt. Using the pinch grip above pull over the bulge into the steep crack. Continue easily up good rock past two more bolts to a single ring lower off.


LB LBLegends In The Baking, 19 19 15m 6
1.02

  • P1
  • 19
  • 15m
  • 6

In the middle of the wall. Start with a steep bouldery sequence up through a small roof to the first bolt, or you can start right of the vege and move left above the roof. Then straight up past the second bolt and directly over a small roof with cool holds. Continue straight up the face with the last bolt out left. Two-ring anchor.


 Trad Bash 2000, 19 19
0

  • P1
  • 19
  • Trad

Up a steep wall following a vague right-trending crack with grass to a rest, then surmount a slight bulge, and onto rap station. Good protection.


 Pinnacle Groove, 19 19
0

  • P1
  • 19
  • Trad

Start just right up a smooth wall to a pedestal at five metres (no pro), and join the groove and crack above. Continue slightly rightward to finish up a steep crack, ending at the rap station to the left of Tres Estrellas de Oro. Excellent rock and good moves, natural protection. Originally the initial wall only was climbed, and linked to Legends. .


3E 3ETres Estrellas De Oro, 18 18 4
2.01

  • P1
  • 18
  • 4

Steep thin face starting from a small ledge, following a discontinuous thin crack up to a two bolt anchor. Crux is getting past the second bolt, then good climbing follows.


WM WMWhispers And Moans, 21 21 4
0

  • P1
  • 21
  • 4

Arête with three bolts just right, on the right edge of the same face. From the second bolt you can continue straight up and climb the face left of the arete, or move right to the arete and climb slightly on the right. Four bolts, including one up high, and double bolt anchor.


 Rib Eye, 19 19
0

  • P1
  • 19
  • Trad

A slightly bold climb on the right side of the arête of Whispers And Moans. Climb the arête directly past reasonable holds and continue up the white lichen covered rock to stand on the pedestal. Wires can be placed in the short crack on the arête and a cam in the corner to the right, plus wires further up. Finish as for Whispers And Moans.


 Unnamed Corner, 16 16
0

  • P1
  • 16
  • Trad

The corner has been climbed.


 Scrap Merchant, 17 17
0

  • P1
  • 17
  • Trad

Start on the right side of the scrappy looking corner; and wander up the wall on reasonable rock tending rightward. Protected in the middle but the crack at the top is too loose to be useful.


 Spanish Inquisition, 21 21
0

  • P1
  • 21
  • Trad

The ugly overhanging V-crack. Place gear low down and make committing moves to clip the bolt; then pull on to the ledge and climb the vague crack and wall left of the arete (with a few bits of gear behind loose flakes and the top bolt of Andele) to the Andele anchors. Not recommended.


 The Adjustment Bureau, 21 21 20m 5
1.02

  • P1
  • 21
  • 20m
  • 5

Start at the Andele! Corner, bust out leftwards under the small roof, the climb the rest of the arête to the rap stn at the top of Andele!


Ad AdAndele!, 18 18 5
0

  • P1
  • 18
  • 5

A right-facing corner, just right of an undercut arête. Hard moves off the deck past the 1st bolt, then climb the corner, moving left to the arete below the last bolt if preferred. Five bolts plus anchors (slightly to the left of the route).


FO FOFace-Off, 21 21 4
0

  • P1
  • 21
  • 4

Begins just left of Arriba!, moving left to the first bolt using a large side-pull. (Don't stand on the muehlenbeckia creeper). Climb the face on small holds leftward to the second bolt and up, finishing directly up the steep wall to the Andele! anchors on the left. Four bolts. .


CK CKCereal Killer, 19 19 4
0

  • P1
  • 19
  • 4

Start as for Face-Off but climb the groove through a bulge on good holds, continuing slightly left. Directly up over as couple of small bulges to the top.


Aa AaArriba!, 21 21 4
0

  • P1
  • 21
  • 4

Climb the steep wall beside the right arête, with hard pulling though a bulge (crux). Four bolts and anchors.


GJ GJGet To Jugs, 19 19 4
0

  • P1
  • 19
  • 4

Five metres left of Tiger Wall is a short wall with a white lichenous prow above. This route follows edges and holds leading leftward past two bolts to ledges. The routes continues past two more bolts (one to the right) to anchors on a ledge above.


GG GGGet To Grips, 22 22 4
1.02

  • P1
  • 22
  • 4

Face climbing on small horizontal seams past two bolts leads slightly right to a slopey ledge and a rest. Then step left to a small wall and up this to anchors. Four bolts.


 Mis-spent Youth, 14 14
0

  • P1
  • 14
  • Trad

Strenuous climbing through an undercut start (crux) leads to an easy-angled wide crack with good protection.


 Unnamed, 20 20 4
0

  • P1
  • 20
  • 4

Start at Get to Grips, veer leftwards across the Misspent Youth Crack, to finish off on the top left of the Tiger Wall.


Comments
Simon Courtois

You could fix the problem too.

Thu, 04/03/2021 - 18:14 Permalink
felixcollins

In reply to by Simon Courtois

Thanks Simon. Yes, great idea. I will probably do that when I next return to the area. I don't usually carry a drill on an after-work climbing outing. It seemed on balance to be better to alert anyone trying the route that the bolt is dangerous than leave it. Many people visit Britten having only climbed in a gym and are not alert to the hazards of poorly placed bolts and loose nuts.

Thu, 18/03/2021 - 12:11 Permalink
felixcollins

In reply to by felixcollins

The bolt has now been replaced and should be safer now. When I wiggled the old bolt a 1cm think flake fell out from where the hanger had been sitting...

Sun, 16/05/2021 - 18:35 Permalink
felixcollins

We took the hanger off the third bolt of the climb Steel River. Next to Scrap Merchant. The climb is not listed here but it's in Tony Burnell's guide. The bolt is wiggly in the rock and looks like it could easily break out. The hanger and nut have been left tied to the first bolt to await replacement.

Wed, 03/03/2021 - 22:53 Permalink
petemoore

I'm fairly sure there's only one route ("The Unclimbed Crack") between "Off the Shelf" and "Legends in the Baking" - "Off the Shelf" and "Revived 45" look like two descriptions of the same climb.

Mon, 17/10/2016 - 12:00 Permalink
UUID
 
f2d92b1e-2610-4375-ac50-730a6fcac223