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|North East Ridge||2||
From the Whataroa Glacier sidle steep slopes, best under snow, to a rib off Whataroa Peak, and cross the snow gully beyond. Three rope-lengths on poor rock lead to the col between Tohunga and a sharp subsidiary of Whataroa Peak. A rock outcrop on the summit ridge can be traversed low on the Whataroa side. A reasonable route in suitable snow conditions, but otherwise pretty tricky. This party descended the obvious snow gully directly back to Ice Lake, which they don’t recommend.
Mike Andrews, Ross Eden, Philip Paton, 24 January 1979
|From Hughes Creek||1||
From Nolans Hut in the Perth, access Hughes Creek and follow it up. Travel is reasonably good, but there is a gorge to sidle between the 600- and 700-metre contours and a rougher bouldery section below the forks at 760 metres. Continue south and head up a side creek in open going through scattered scrub from I35 063553 / BW17 964 936. This creek splits into two tiny parallel creeks draining from the peak. Continue south-east up the face to the summit. If traversing between Tohunga and Whataroa Peaks, a short vertical section of difficult rock east of the col between the peaks would probably require a rope.
Andrew Buglass, late 1980s
Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club
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