Mt Whataroa

(2 routes)

Mt Whataroa is one of the dramatic buttressed peaks visible on the Butler Range when looking up the
Whataroa Valley from the highway.

-43.393136000000, 170.505066000000
I35 079 541
BW17 979 925
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
IL From Ice Lake
Access the névé of the Whataroa Glacier. Cross this and climb to the Butler Range, aiming for the saddle immediately east of Mt Whataroa. About 200 metres of rock scrambling leads to the summit.
J Sampson, S Conway, D O W Hall, A Anderson, January 1949
NWB North West Buttress 3 13 800m
This 800-metre buttress is visible from the road bridge. Grass on the lower half of the route lets the climb down, but can be largely avoided by using a snow gully on the right. This gives access to a ramp/ledge leading out left onto the buttress proper. A difficult section of steep rock follows, where there is still some moss and grass. Eventually, solid rock climbing on schist slabs offers much better going. These lead to the summit crags. Climbing potential also exists on the pinnacle between Mt Whataroa and Tohunga Peak.
Guy McKinnon, 16 January 2007
Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club