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  6. The Forum

The Forum

(3 routes)

The Forum is the narrow wall just upstream of the Arboretum, about 400 metres downstream from the Hanging Garden. Though not as sheltered as other crags, it may remain dry in a light southerly. Pitches are 25 to 30 metres long, with the wall gaining extra exposure credits from the traversing approach to the first belay station at the 30 metre level.

Type: 
Wall
Altitude: 
100m
Aspect: 
North
Walk time: 
10 min
Access: 

The first crag you reach from the Arboretum parking (gravel pullout 4.7km from SH6 with a rock cairn). Follow the vague track through long grass and "the mangroves" to the sandy (and hopefully dry) riverbed. Walk downriver until you reach a flagged trail signposted "Forum" leading off to the left after about 100m after entering the riverbed (if you arrive at the log jam you've gone too far). Take the vague trail up to the left through the bush to a fixed traverse line 1/2 way up the cliff. Traverse out to a belay station, the three climbs start from here.

New Zealand map

Map, Topo

Lat/Lon: 
-42.095952000000, 171.386790000000
NZMS260: 
K30 765 000
Topo50: 
BS19 666 383
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
1 Francis' route 23 25m
0
 8bolts
Directly above the anchor. Shares the first two bolts of Absent Friends before moving slightly left to steep crimpy wall (crux), followed by easier climbing on a slab. Continue up an exposed arête to finish on slopey holds.
Francis Main, 2013
2 Absent Friends 18 25m
0
 9bolts
From the second bolt continue up on good holds slightly rightward and then a little left on a slab. A white area in a corner leads to the first bulge (crux), with tricky moves to high holds. Bolted by Simon Courtois.
Lindsay Main, 2013
3 Double Trouble 20 ,19 53m
0
 17bolts
20, 28m. From the first bolt move right (the second bolt can be clipped with a sling) and follow the bolts diagonally to a shallow groove, where the climbing steepens. Up to the right of a small tree on small holds to a dirty crack; then bridge up under the bulge, step left and balance through the bulge heading left on slopers (crux) to the station.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
12028m9No
 20, 28m. From the first bolt move right (the second bolt can be clipped with a sling) and follow the bolts diagonally to a shallow groove, where the climbing steepens. Up to the right of a small tree on small holds to a dirty crack; then bridge up under the bulge, step left and balance through the bulge heading left on slopers (crux) to the station.
21925m8No
 19, 25m. Step out right to clip the first bolt and move cautiously up to the vegetated ledge. Muscle up through the overhangs and balance on to the ledge; then follow the bolts through a couple of shallow scoops to the final moves up the white streak.
Lindsay Main, 2013
Attribution: 
Lindsay Main

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