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1 | Rumble In The Jungle | 16 ,16 | 25m |
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Would make a fantastic first multi-pitch!
Neil Silverwood, 2014
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2 | More Bang For Your Buck | 17 | 30m |
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Starts 5m left of the direct start to Every Dog Has His Day.
Layback the slab and head up through a featured roof to gain the wall above. Great climb with lots of variety!
Neil Silverwood
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3 | Every Dog Has His Day | 20 | 25m |
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The routes on the right side of the cliff are accessed by traversing left
along a narrow ledge from the start of of Ohu, Karearea.
Neil Silverwood, 2010, Jack Grinsted, 2012 ( direct start)
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4 | The Ruairi McAree | 15 | 12m |
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Start from the tree root and climb the scruffy left hand cam-eating corner up to the start of "slow jazz." An alternative method for getting to the Karearea shelf. Descend via the trail to the right
Neil Warrington 2014
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5 | Go You Good Thing Go | 15 | 20m |
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Low bolt for the belayer. Bridge up a featured chimney, past 5 bolts then climb to the left of the 6th bolt (crux) and up to the DBA (Cleaned and a bolt added 2014).
Neil Silverwood, 2010
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6 | Slow Jazz | 17 | 30m |
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Slow Jazz. Fun climbing in the corner and on the arete, finishing at DBA left of the roof. One or two large wires at the bottom. I will proably bolt this at some stage in keeping with the surrounding bolted cracks. Best bring belayer up to Slow Jazz DBA before traversing to ISGM as the traverse is a bit loose.
Aaron Gillespie 2012
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7 | I Support Gay Marriage | 20 | 30m |
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Spectacular route up hanging pillar and through overhanging buttress. Access via short bolted traverse from the top anchor of Slow Jazz.
Aaron Gillespie, 2012
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8 | My Empire Of Dirt | 16 | 20m |
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A large crack with a roof that divides the wall. Tends to rain dirt from the ledge above. Originally climbed on gear, but now fully bolted.
Neil Silverwood, 2010
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9 | Ohu, Karearea | 18 ,22 ,19 | 65m |
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Go further along through the supplejack and cut back to the left to gain a
ledge leading to a chimney and the top of a block where the route starts.
Jack Grinsted, Lindsay Main, 2008.
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10 | Unfinished Business | 17 ,25 | 50m |
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Start from a tree at the top of a greasy slope, following the obvious crack initially and through a steeper section to a station below the roof and slightly to the left.
Francis Main, 2013
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Two Towers
(10 routes)
Originally classified as part of the Arboretum, the Two Towers now stand alone offering some unique climbing to those that venture to the unmistakable cliff. Home to a handful
of Bullock Creek's easiest climbs, it's a great first stop to test out the rock if you're new to the area. However, the cracks on the wall have a tendency to be a little dirty due to a dusty ledge above. Don't let this put you off. Just dust of the holds, crack a smile and get a feel for what it is like to climb on a stack of pancakes.
Follow the track from the Arboretum parking (gravel pullout 4.7km from SH6 with a rock cairn). Follow the vague track through long grass and "the mangroves" to the sandy (and hopefully dry) riverbed. Walk downriver for several hundred metres past the ever-changing mess of logs where a sign stating "Fun Climbing" hung between two trees indicates the start of a marked track. When you reach a junction, turn right for the trail marked "2 Towers & Colosseum". 50m down this trail is a 12m high perfect hand crack, this is 'The Ruairi McAree'. Turning back upriver at this point underneath the cliffs will lead you to Rumble in the Jungle, More Bang For Your Buck and Every Dog Has His Day. Alternatively, access the Karearea Shelf (and the rest of the Two Towers routes) via The Ruairi McAree or by continuing along the trail (downriver) beneath the cliffs to a massive windfall area. Scramble uphill over a stump and back left through a slot between some boulders onto the shelf.