Two Towers

(10 routes)

Originally classified as part of the Arboretum, the Two Towers now stand alone offering some unique climbing to those that venture to the unmistakable cliff. Home to a handful
of Bullock Creek's easiest climbs, it's a great first stop to test out the rock if you're new to the area. However, the cracks on the wall have a tendency to be a little dirty due to a dusty ledge above. Don't let this put you off. Just dust of the holds, crack a smile and get a feel for what it is like to climb on a stack of pancakes.

Type: 
Wall
Altitude: 
100m
Walk time: 
15 min
Access: 

Follow the track from the Arboretum parking (gravel pullout 4.7km from SH6 with a rock cairn). Follow the vague track through long grass and "the mangroves" to the sandy (and hopefully dry) riverbed. Walk downriver for several hundred metres past the ever-changing mess of logs where a sign stating "Fun Climbing" hung between two trees indicates the start of a marked track. When you reach a junction, turn right for the trail marked "2 Towers & Colosseum". 50m down this trail is a 12m high perfect hand crack, this is 'The Ruairi McAree'. Turning back upriver at this point underneath the cliffs will lead you to Rumble in the Jungle, More Bang For Your Buck and Every Dog Has His Day. Alternatively, access the Karearea Shelf (and the rest of the Two Towers routes) via The Ruairi McAree or by continuing along the trail (downriver) beneath the cliffs to a massive windfall area. Scramble uphill over a stump and back left through a slot between some boulders onto the shelf.

Lat/Lon: 
-42.095788000000, 171.385538000000
NZMS260: 
K30 764 000
Topo50: 
BS19 665 383
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
1 Rumble In The Jungle 16 ,16 25m
1.02
9bolts
Would make a fantastic first multi-pitch!
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11625m9No
 Lay back on slab then up left through a roof and traverse hard left round the corner at the forth bolt to a DBA.
2160mNo
 Enjoyable climbing up the corner to an exposed finish.
Neil Silverwood, 2014
2 More Bang For Your Buck 17 30m
1.02
9bolts
Starts 5m left of the direct start to Every Dog Has His Day. Layback the slab and head up through a featured roof to gain the wall above. Great climb with lots of variety!
Neil Silverwood
3 Every Dog Has His Day 20 25m
1.02
9bolts
The routes on the right side of the cliff are accessed by traversing left along a narrow ledge from the start of of Ohu, Karearea.
Neil Silverwood, 2010, Jack Grinsted, 2012 ( direct start)
4 The Ruairi McAree 15 12m
3
wire representing trad
Start from the tree root and climb the scruffy left hand cam-eating corner up to the start of "slow jazz." An alternative method for getting to the Karearea shelf. Descend via the trail to the right
Neil Warrington 2014
5 Go You Good Thing Go 15 20m
1.02
6bolts
Low bolt for the belayer. Bridge up a featured chimney, past 5 bolts then climb to the left of the 6th bolt (crux) and up to the DBA (Cleaned and a bolt added 2014).
Neil Silverwood, 2010
6 Slow Jazz 17 30m
1.02
10bolts wire representing trad
Slow Jazz. Fun climbing in the corner and on the arete, finishing at DBA left of the roof. One or two large wires at the bottom. I will proably bolt this at some stage in keeping with the surrounding bolted cracks. Best bring belayer up to Slow Jazz DBA before traversing to ISGM as the traverse is a bit loose.
Aaron Gillespie 2012
7 I Support Gay Marriage 20 30m
1.02
10bolts
Spectacular route up hanging pillar and through overhanging buttress. Access via short bolted traverse from the top anchor of Slow Jazz.
Aaron Gillespie, 2012
8 My Empire Of Dirt 16 20m
0
6bolts
A large crack with a roof that divides the wall. Tends to rain dirt from the ledge above. Originally climbed on gear, but now fully bolted.
Neil Silverwood, 2010
9 Ohu, Karearea 18 ,22 ,19 65m
1.02
20bolts
Go further along through the supplejack and cut back to the left to gain a ledge leading to a chimney and the top of a block where the route starts.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11825m7No
 Start up the crack or the yellow face to the right and climb the crack, moving right at the horizontal break. Up the slab and headwall to gain the vegetated ledge. Finish up the steep short wall to the next ledge and ring anchors.
22225m7No
 Climb slightly to the right then back left to gain the flowstone, then swing up on to the wall. Up on small holds to an easier section trending right. Then up and left through the overhang to exit to the ledge and anchor chain.
31915m6No
 Start at the right edge of the ledge and climb the wall to meet the arĂȘte five metres up (great holds). Gain the slab to the right and balance up to the runnel. Bridge up to a very thought-provoking move to the anchor.
Jack Grinsted, Lindsay Main, 2008.
10 Unfinished Business 17 ,25 50m
1.02
13bolts
Start from a tree at the top of a greasy slope, following the obvious crack initially and through a steeper section to a station below the roof and slightly to the left.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11725m6No
 Start from a tree at the top of a greasy slope, following the obvious crack initially and through a steeper section to a station below the roof and slightly to the left.
22525m7No
 Pull through the roof (crux) with long moves and climb the upper wall to meet the finish of pitch 2 (and crux section) of Ohu, Karearea.
Francis Main, 2013
Attribution: 
Additional information added from the pdf by Neil Warrington & Neil Silverwood. http://www.kiwitracks.com/paparoa/

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UUID: 
23b90bed-e3e9-4df8-a4fc-82df012ea6a5