Two Towers | ClimbNZ

Type

Altitude

100m

Part of

Originally classified as part of the Arboretum, the Two Towers now stand alone offering some unique climbing to those that venture to the unmistakable cliff. Home to a handful
of Bullock Creek's easiest climbs, it's a great first stop to test out the rock if you're new to the area. However, the cracks on the wall have a tendency to be a little dirty due to a dusty ledge above. Don't let this put you off. Just dust of the holds, crack a smile and get a feel for what it is like to climb on a stack of pancakes.

Walktime

15 min

Lat/lon

-42.095788,171.385538, NZ Topo Map

Topo50

BS19 665 383

Approach

Follow the track from the Arboretum parking (gravel pullout 4.7km from SH6 with a rock cairn). Follow the vague track through long grass and "the mangroves" to the sandy (and hopefully dry) riverbed. Walk downriver for several hundred metres past the ever-changing mess of logs where a sign stating "Fun Climbing" hung between two trees indicates the start of a marked track. When you reach a junction, turn right for the trail marked "2 Towers & Colosseum". 50m down this trail is a 12m high perfect hand crack, this is 'The Ruairi McAree'. Turning back upriver at this point underneath the cliffs will lead you to Rumble in the Jungle, More Bang For Your Buck and Every Dog Has His Day. Alternatively, access the Karearea Shelf (and the rest of the Two Towers routes) via The Ruairi McAree or by continuing along the trail (downriver) beneath the cliffs to a massive windfall area. Scramble uphill over a stump and back left through a slot between some boulders onto the shelf.

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality
1	1Rumble In The Jungle, 16	16	25m	9	1.02
Would make a fantastic first multi-pitch! P1 16 25m 9 Lay back on slab then up left through a roof and traverse hard left round the corner at the forth bolt to a DBA. P2 16 Enjoyable climbing up the corner to an exposed finish.
2	2More Bang For Your Buck, 17	17	30m	9	1.02
P1 17 30m 9 Starts 5m left of the direct start to Every Dog Has His Day. Layback the slab and head up through a featured roof to gain the wall above. Great climb with lots of variety!
3	3Every Dog Has His Day, 20	20	25m	9	1.02
The routes on the right side of the cliff are accessed by traversing left along a narrow ledge from the start of of Ohu, Karearea. P1 20 25m 9 Starts at the hard left side of the Two Towers. Clip the First bolt of Go You Good Thing and traverse left. Clip the second and third bolts and through some delicate moves to gain the scoop. Climb through a short overhang to gain the main face and finally the top slab. Sustained. There is also a direct start from the ground below the grassy ledge.
4	4The Ruairi McAree, 15	15	12m		3
P1 15 12m Trad Start from the tree root and climb the scruffy left hand cam-eating corner up to the start of "slow jazz." An alternative method for getting to the Karearea shelf. Descend via the trail to the right
5	5Go You Good Thing Go, 15	15	20m	6	1.02
P1 15 20m 6 Low bolt for the belayer. Bridge up a featured chimney, past 5 bolts then climb to the left of the 6th bolt (crux) and up to the DBA (Cleaned and a bolt added 2014).
6	6Slow Jazz, 17	17	30m	10	1.02
P1 17 30m 10 Trad Slow Jazz. Fun climbing in the corner and on the arete, finishing at DBA left of the roof. One or two large wires at the bottom. I will proably bolt this at some stage in keeping with the surrounding bolted cracks. Best bring belayer up to Slow Jazz DBA before traversing to ISGM as the traverse is a bit loose.
7	7I Support Gay Marriage, 20	20	30m	10	1.02
P1 20 30m 10 Spectacular route up hanging pillar and through overhanging buttress. Access via short bolted traverse from the top anchor of Slow Jazz.
8	8My Empire Of Dirt, 16	16	20m	6	0
P1 16 20m 6 A large crack with a roof that divides the wall. Tends to rain dirt from the ledge above. Originally climbed on gear, but now fully bolted.
9	9Ohu, Karearea, 22	22	65m	7	1.02
Go further along through the supplejack and cut back to the left to gain a ledge leading to a chimney and the top of a block where the route starts. P1 18 25m 7 Start up the crack or the yellow face to the right and climb the crack, moving right at the horizontal break. Up the slab and headwall to gain the vegetated ledge. Finish up the steep short wall to the next ledge and ring anchors. P2 22 25m 7 Climb slightly to the right then back left to gain the flowstone, then swing up on to the wall. Up on small holds to an easier section trending right. Then up and left through the overhang to exit to the ledge and anchor chain. P3 19 15m 6 Start at the right edge of the ledge and climb the wall to meet the arête five metres up (great holds). Gain the slab to the right and balance up to the runnel. Bridge up to a very thought-provoking move to the anchor.
10	10Unfinished Business, 25	25	50m	7	1.02
P1 17 25m 6 Start from a tree at the top of a greasy slope, following the obvious crack initially and through a steeper section to a station below the roof and slightly to the left. P2 25 25m 7 Pull through the roof (crux) with long moves and climb the upper wall to meet the finish of pitch 2 (and crux section) of Ohu, Karearea.

Comments

Attribution

Additional information added from the pdf by Neil Warrington & Neil Silverwood. http://www.kiwitracks.com/paparoa/

UUID

23b90bed-e3e9-4df8-a4fc-82df012ea6a5