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Gumboot Ledge

Type
Sector
Altitude
150m
Part of
The Arboretum

The ledge on the left side of the Arboretum, halfway up.

Walktime
10 min
Aspect
North
Approach

Accessed by climbing either While You See A Chance or Never Mind the Bullocks.

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
3 3Arc Of A Diver, 20 20 41m 6
2.01

At the large tree hanging over the end of Gumboot Ledge, starts two metres
right of the finish of While You See A Chance, and can be linked to give a
five-pitch climb.

  • P1
  • 16
  • 18m
  • 6

From the dusty chimney step on to the right wall and gain the arête. Continue on large, solid holds (big space between bolts) and through the juggy overhang. On up the increasingly exposed arête to a crux just before the move right to a two-ring anchor.

  • P2
  • 19
  • 15m
  • 6

Easily up to the narrow point on the arête and move right where it steepens. Negotiate loose rock at the right and move left (crux) to a rest. Easily up the jugs to a chain station at the ledge with a small tree.

  • P3
  • 20
  • 8m
  • 4

Awkwardly gain the right-leading ramp and climb past three bolts. Then climb the face delicately to the chain anchor (crux).

4 4Up To The Neck, 18 18 18m 1
0
  • P1
  • 18
  • 18m
  • 1
  • Trad

Naturally-protected route starting at the corner/crack just right of a two-ring station. Starts on black rock with good holds. From a bolt traverse right four metres to an anchor station.

5 5Blistering Banacles, 17 17 33m 6
0
  • P1
  • 17
  • 18m
  • 6

Start at a high anchor station on the right side of Gumboot Ledge, climb through the overhang on solid white rock to a ledge; then after two bolts move left and climb the right-facing corner and crack to a chain station.

  • P2
  • 17
  • 15m
  • Trad

This pitch was led on natural gear and down-climbed. Follow the crack through appallingly loose black rock with crux moves bridging into a small cave. Large gear for pro.
6 6Plan B, 19 19 30m 11
1.02
  • P1
  • 19
  • 30m
  • 11

Can be combined with Never Mind The Bullocks for a 70 metre, 3 pitch route. Start as for Blistering Barnacles, but continue straight up the crack which steepens steadily. Move through the overhangs to rests; then climb the upper slopey section to the tree and a chain anchor
Comments
Attribution
Lindsay Main. Additional information added from the pdf by Neil Warrington & Neil Silverwood. http://www.kiwitracks.com/paparoa/
UUID
 
28fd0bec-2047-4c63-8324-a7dada8b5f4a