Hanging Gardens

(16 routes)

North Facing limestone Crags, that are generally weather proof. There are quite a few good climbs here at various grades, and a lot more climbing to be developed.
The first three climbs are located exactly 150 paces upriver from the main crag (Hanging Gardens). Lost in Time and Love From Me are on a face directly behind a small patch of grass 20m from the sandy riverbed. The Crack of Beyond is tucked up at the gully to the right of this.

Walk time: 

The Hanging Gardens is the last major cliff band on the right hand side of the valley when driving up the road, 5.3km up the Bullock Creek Road. There is a small pull over by a single tree where you can see the crag clearly from the road. Vague trail crosses small creek and grassy meadow. If raining hard keep an eye on the creek.

-42.097035000000, 171.391460000000
K30 769 998
BS19 670 382
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Lost in Time 22 18m
Start left of the small prow, bust through some dusty scoops to some entertaining moves on the face above.
Neil Warrington, 2015
Love From Me 19 18m
Not hard to tell this route was put up by a skier-cum-climber. A slalom course of a line. Starts right of the prow and deke left to share the 3rd bolt of Lost in Time before carving back through the big scoops to finish up the vague arête.
Kat Rast, 2015
Crack of Beyond 16
This route is well hidden about 50 metres upstream on a small crag tucked up in the bush. A perfect, aesthetic handcrack on yellow rock, with its own protecting overhang above.
Bruce Dowrick, 1999.
Crème Brulee 12 ,22
This route is on the left of the crag and starts above a scrubby bank with a cut-off fixed rope. Climb from the tree to the cut fixed rope (good cams) to gain the vegetated ledge directly under the arête. Anchor to tree and root.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad

This route is on the left of the crag and starts above a scrubby bank with a cut-off fixed rope.
Climb from the tree to the cut fixed rope (good cams) to gain the vegetated ledge directly under the arête. Anchor to tree and root.


Climb steep white rock to the left and then move right to gain the arête, and continue to the chains. Sustained.

Bruce Dowrick, 1999.
Champing at the bit 14 17m
wire representing trad
50m up stream of IoI on river bank beneath the deserted bee hive. Follow a series of cracks then step right to chimney thing and anchor above.
James Lochhead 2013
IoI Illusions of Inadequacy 19
5bolts wire representing trad
On the main part of the crag, starting directly from the usually dry riverbed. Starting on the left of the wall against the trees, follow a vague crack rightward to a stance and overhang, and pull up on good holds on the left. Pass the thread (previously the anchor) at 15 metres and continue to the ring anchors below the overhang. Since recent retro-bolting, this climb has about five bolts. Dean Arthur, 1999.
Dean Arthur, 1999.
HA&V Heart Attack & Vine 25
Second pitch of Illusions of Inadequacy. Move up through the overhang to belay station. Best climbed as one 25m pitch from the ground. The third pitch to the overlap and beyond is unclimbed.
Bruce Dowrick, 1999.
SP Seemingly Psychedelic 24 29m
Best climbed as one 29m pitch from the ground. Climb Illusions of Inadequacy to last bolt then veer right wards to ledge then through the small roof, then its steep slab climbing on excellent rock all the way to the anchor. You can be lowered to the ground on a 60m rope but when cleaning best lower to anchor of IoI and re-thread.
Troy Mattingley 2013
KD Knee Deep 20 18m
3m right of IoL. Start left of bush to gain crack, up over bulge then up slab to a good stance below large flake, around this to a mantle finish.
James Lochhead 2013
Opp Opportunivore 18
2bolts wire representing trad
This route is based on the crack. Start as for Bush Chick and move left after clipping its first bolt and gain the crack, followed by a crux move to the groove. Follow the crack and move right to the chains. Originally quite committing on gear, but now protected with bolts.
Bruce Dowrick, 1999.
BC Bush Chick 17
Very nice climbing through the left of the overhang, clipping about six bolts.
Toni Bryant, 1999.
WtWW Where The Weka Was 21
Hard crimpy moves to reach a high first bolt (a lower one may be added) to protect the moves through the small overlap, then easier to the overhang. Pull through heading right, and back left to the chains.
Bruce Dowrick, 1999.
OMW Organic Migraine 8m
RH side of crag, a neat little route that climbs up to the rata root... (still needs an anchor - single bolt lower off atm)
Troy Mattingley, 2014
Nicotine Rampage 21
3m left of DiS
James Lochhead 2014
DiS Dogs in Space 18
Right hand side of the crag, up on the terrace above river. A bouldery face leads you up to the crack and easier climbing. Total classic.
Robin Hood 85/86
tGG The Great Gatsby 21 20m
Somewhat of a romantic drama. Start up Dogs in Space, at 3rd bolt step right and head up to chain draw then step right again on good holds to gain to the classy arete (crux) and then up arete to anchor. When cleaning best to redirect off the chain draw to avoid swinging into bush.
Troy Mattingley 2013
Lindsay Main & Jason Blair. Neil Silverwood, Jack Grinstead. Additional information added from the pdf by Neil Warrington & Neil Silverwood. http://www.kiwitracks.com/paparoa/

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