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From the North Poerua Glacier sidle east past pt 2177m to the col under the buttress dividing Alpheus Creek from the South Poerua, or else reach here from Alpheus Creek itself. Snow gullies lead to the col from both sides in early summer, but watch for stonefall, especially on the Poeroa side.
Above the col, the most difficult climbing is in the first 50m on sometimes loose and sometimes firm schist. The first ascent route climbed directly from the col, turning slabby bluffs a short way up out to climbers left in a shallow flaky corner and continued more or less directly up to the top of the buttress. Above, pt 2332m can be bypassed closeby on snow to the east. A snow arete then leads to the last series of steps. These have reasonable rock, but are still demanding and an alternative is to sidle on snowslopes to the west, returning directly to the summit.
G Spearpoint, L Duff, Dec 1974
Gordon Howitt and Alan Gill in Dec1962 descended part of the ridge before being forced to abseil off it into the South Poerua.