A steep wall with good rock. Part of the cliff is roughly textured; the other part is smooth and polished, adding to the intensity. Access the routes using a short via ferrata and fixed rope.
Take West Wānaka Rd for 2.8km and park on grass after the bridge crossing the Matukituki River. Across the road, zig left up the grassy slope then zag right to the tip of a grassy terrace where you’ll find possum traps and blue markers. Follow the trapline up into the bush up a broad gully, after 10 minutes keep an eye out for the branch right up a rocky gully to the crag.
Routes
Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Alert | Operations |
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1 | 1Mantle as Anything, 19 | 19 | 15m | 6 | |||
On the left hand side, climb ledgey face to a scary finish – be careful.
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2 | 2Jazz, 27 | 27 | 20m | 9 | |||
Thin face to ledge then more thin face.
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3 | 3Community Service, 26 | 26 | 25m | 7 | |||
Excellent.
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4 | 4Skin Therapy, 29 | 29 | 25m | 10 | |||
Thin, long and hard.
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5 | 5Greasy Chips, 25 | 25 | 25m | 9 | |||
Start up Skin Therapy, then head left to join Community Service. The original line.
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6 | 6Hip-rock-racy, 24 | 24 | 20m | 6 | |||
Above the via ferrata. Layback crack and continuous steep face climbing on excellent textured rock.
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