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Next Level

Type
Part of

Looming up a shady gully, this crag is perfect for when it’s too hot and/or you’ve worked through the other Mt Iron crags. It’s Next Level in terms of local geography and industrial cleaning techniques – fortunately Milo was well equipped for the latter.

Image
Rights credit
Wānaka Rock 2021
Rights
Copyright Wānaka Climbing Club and New Zealand Alpine Club
Walktime
20 min
Approach

Located off the summit walking track. From the Old Racecourse Rd track access, turn left, walk 200m and then turn right up the summit walking track. After some stairs, there is a right hairpin corner with two boulders on the left. The two boulders are the start of the climbing trail. Follow this left then turn up the gully – it is 6–8 minutes to Next Level from the DOC track.
DOC requires climbers’ access be not obvious to the general public, so it’s important that people don’t shortcut from below the stairs. Especially bear this in mind when descending as a short cut has built up that is tempting to take and has become visible from the DOC track. Please don’t use it.

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
1 1Lockdown, 25 25 15m 6
0

Start up and left of the Virus blob, straight up into the slab/corner below the steep wall, up and slightly left, hard moves traversing right along the break to gain the arête, then up and left to chains.


  • P1
  • 25
  • 15m
  • 6

2 2The Virus, 19 19 15m 6
0

Start down and right of the virus-shaped blob, climb onto it, move left up the flowstone features and continue trending left, up and left some more. Finishes in a hanging corner out of sight.


  • P1
  • 19
  • 15m
  • 6

3 3Covert 19, 20 20 20m 8
0

Starts on the limestone-like pockets left of the leaning block. Varied, interesting climbing up to and following the corner. The 4th clip can be reachy for short people.


  • P1
  • 20
  • 20m
  • 8

4 4Orange Is The New Black, 24 24 25m 10
1.02

Start up Covert 19 till the 4th bolt, then trend slightly right on big holds to the overlap. Pull the lip onto the wall above where the route traverses right at a horizontal break and then back left onto the blank-looking orange rock for the crux. Finish above the second overlap.


  • P1
  • 24
  • 25m
  • 10

5 5Worth The Walk, 23 23 22m 10
0

Same start as Orange…, but keep traversing further under the overlap, then up onto the wall on the black streak. It is possible to rest at the arête before moving back left to the thin crux moves up the black streak. Three long draws recommended to lessen rope drag.


  • P1
  • 23
  • 22m
  • 10

6 6More Bang For Your Buck, 24 24 20m 8
0

Direct start into WTW. Features bouldery bulges and a steep bit below the overlap, where it joins WTW after 4b.


  • P1
  • 24
  • 20m
  • 8

7 7Are You Boeuf Et Neuf? 20m
0

Closed project. The steep line left of Chossfit.


  • P1
  • 20m

8 8Chossfit 2000 Deluxe, 24 24 20m 10
1.02

Clip your belayer to the single bolt at the end of the ledge, then traverse out right and clip the chain hanging over the edge above. Steep, bouldery and fairly continuous until the scoop below the last overlap. Finishes on the black wall above.


  • P1
  • 24
  • 20m
  • 10

Comments
UUID
 
0efce1c3-676b-4ef5-9d53-40068cc707a8