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Next Best Thing

Type
Sector
Part of
Mt Iron

A well-featured crag with steep routes and a good selection of grades to help build your power endurance. The cliff is by nature gritty and a bit crumbly (helmet recommended). Some routes are possible in light rain.

Rights credit
Wānaka Rock 2021
Rights
Copyright Wānaka Climbing Club and New Zealand Alpine Club
Walktime
5 min
Aspect
East
Approach

From the access gate, walk north along the fence line for about 50m and find the cairn marking the track to your left.

Add Place Add Route

Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
1 1Rubber Monkey 1, 20 20 10m 5
0

Steep, steep and steeper with big holds and excellent roof moves and fixed draws.

  • P1
  • 20
  • 10m
  • 5
2 2Rubber Monkey 2, 20 20 10m 5
0

Slab with some tricky route finding.

  • P1
  • 20
  • 10m
  • 5
3 3Three Little Pigs, 23 23 15m 4
0

Short, steep and pumpy, take care with the belay.

  • P1
  • 23
  • 15m
  • 4
4 4Brass Monkey, 23 23 15m 5
0

Trend up and left on the seam feature.

  • P1
  • 23
  • 15m
  • 5
5 5Stool Pigeon, 23 23 15m 5
1.02

Shallow groove with good grips and interesting features.

  • P1
  • 23
  • 15m
  • 5
6 6Toe the Line, 19 19 20m 8
1.02

Steep moves up and right, then find your way through various bulges.

  • P1
  • 19
  • 20m
  • 8
7 7Pump Iron, 21 21 20m 6
0

Good for a night at the gym, tough start then eases off to zigzag finish.

  • P1
  • 21
  • 20m
  • 6
8 8Badgers Will Rule the World, 22 22 15m 5
0

Nice start features but a messy belay due to bird droppings at the anchor.

  • P1
  • 22
  • 15m
  • 5
9 9Spiral Staircase, 18 18 20m 7
1.02

Up the groove, then traverse right under the roof.

  • P1
  • 18
  • 20m
  • 7
10 10Sliced Bread, 23 23 20m 6
0

The best thing since … ?

  • P1
  • 23
  • 20m
  • 6
11 11Chink in the Armour, 21 21 15m 5
1.02

Steep bolted crack with some staunch moves.

  • P1
  • 21
  • 15m
  • 5
12 12Mind Bender, 25 25 15m 5
1.02

Technical start with a committing dynamic move.

  • P1
  • 25
  • 15m
  • 5
13 13Crossroads, 22 22 15m 4
1.02

Up the right edge, a bit of power and a heel hook required.

  • P1
  • 22
  • 15m
  • 4
14 14Hydrophobia, 20 20 20m 4
0

Wandering route after awkward mantle start.

  • P1
  • 20
  • 20m
  • 4
15 15No More ‘Brownes Cows’, 12 12 10m 4
0

Short slab route with big holds.

  • P1
  • 12
  • 10m
  • 4
Comments
UUID
 
1b427af6-aa66-4608-b6ba-443f426eade9