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Middle Curtain

Type
Part of

This crag has a good selection of routes, from slabs to wildly overhanging. The rock quality is good, but the cliff is by nature gritty and crumbly in places, with the potential for some big bits to be pulled off. Helmets are recommended.

Image
Rights credit
Wānaka Rock 2021
Rights
Copyright Wānaka Climbing Club and New Zealand Alpine Club
Walktime
10 min
Aspect
East
Approach

From the access gate, walk north along the fence line for about 200m, until you reach the crag entrance for Ironside. Then walk uphill about 50m.

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
1 1Russ Boy, 20 20 20m 7
0

Broken face climbing.


  • P1
  • 20
  • 20m
  • 7

2 2Pania of the Reef, 21 21 20m 7
1.02

Technical climbing over the bulge and through the scoop left of arête.


  • P1
  • 21
  • 20m
  • 7

3 3Sidewinder, 19 19 15m 3
0

Angle up and right with delicate moves.


  • P1
  • 19
  • 15m
  • 3

4 4Snooze You Loose, 23 23 15m 4
0

Long reaches end with bigger holds on superb rock.


  • P1
  • 23
  • 15m
  • 4

5 5Dablam, 24 24 20m 7
1.02

Keep trending up and right with some airy moves on steep rock.


  • P1
  • 24
  • 20m
  • 7

6 6Mine, Mine, Mine, 25 25 20m 7
1.02

A faint prow through some wicked, steep country.


  • P1
  • 25
  • 20m
  • 7

7 7AP32, 22 22 20m 8
2.01

Steep, steep and steeper with big holds and excellent roof moves and fixed draws.


  • P1
  • 22
  • 20m
  • 8

8 8Demolition Man, 26 26 20m 8
2.01

Head up and out and out and out some more through the middle of the roof. Would be a gym climb if the holds were coloured.


  • P1
  • 26
  • 20m
  • 8

9 9Hoover, 20 20 15m 5
0

Long reaches up and right over some nice features. A short person’s problem.


  • P1
  • 20
  • 15m
  • 5

10 10Manouevre, 25 25 5m 5
1.02

Overhanging crack feature extending above Hoover.


  • P1
  • 25
  • 5m
  • 5

11 11Hey Presto, 24 24 15m 7
0

Start right of Hoover, up ramp to bulge and finish at same chains as Hoover or (better) continue as for Manouevre.


  • P1
  • 24
  • 15m
  • 7

12 12Pick Pocket, 28 28 15m 8
2.01

Powerful face and pocket moves.


  • P1
  • 28
  • 15m
  • 8

Comments
Attribution
Wānaka Climbing Club
UUID
 
f7ee8450-08c9-43d3-a847-ffdf042cbba6