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Ironside

Type
Sector
Part of
Mt Iron

A popular crag, with a concentration of quality routes on steep slabs and a few overhangs. A good warm-up for what lies ahead. Generally, the rock quality is good with just a few crumbly sections. Some routes are affected seasonally with bird droppings.

Rights credit
Wānaka Rock 2021
Rights
Copyright Wānaka Climbing Club and New Zealand Alpine Club
Walktime
5–10 min
Approach

From the access gate, walk north along the fence line for about 200m until you reach the crag access track just a few metres from the cliff.

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
 Iron Age, 22 22 20m 7
0

A traverse that leaves Sonique at the third bolt and traverses a diagonal seam left to the Urban Hang anchor.

  • P1
  • 22
  • 20m
  • 7
1 1Urban Hang, 21 21 15m 5
0

Maybe you shouldn’t have had that second latté at the cafe. Curving line to below overhang.

  • P1
  • 21
  • 15m
  • 5
2 2The Prickly Lawyer, 20 20 20m 5
1.02

Trend up and right.

  • P1
  • 20
  • 20m
  • 5
3 3A Sharp Prick, 24 24 20m 5
0

Good reaches through the bulges.

  • P1
  • 24
  • 20m
  • 5
4 4Bush Lawyer, 22 22 20m 5
2.01

Up the wall on slopey crimps then a groove.

  • P1
  • 22
  • 20m
  • 5
5 5Supersonique, 22 22 20m 6
1.02

Up the wall on slopey crimps then roof moves to join Sonique.

  • P1
  • 22
  • 20m
  • 6
6 6Sonique, 20 20 20m 7
1.02

Trend up and left through bulging crack system with roofs.

  • P1
  • 20
  • 20m
  • 7
7 7Easily the Best Route on the Crag, 23 23 20m 6
2.01

Cleaned by Ed Nepia, then abandoned in favour of Aussie adventures.

  • P1
  • 23
  • 20m
  • 6
8 8The Free Mantle, 24 24 20m 8
1.02

Up steep jugs to a hard mantle, then up and up again.

  • P1
  • 24
  • 20m
  • 8
9 9Irony, 25 25 15m 5
1.02

Bouldery moves with a few twists and turns along the way.

  • P1
  • 25
  • 15m
  • 5
10 10Steelworks, 23 23 15m 5
2.01

Now without the huge glued-on jug. There is a harder and bolder right hand finish (24).

  • P1
  • 23
  • 15m
  • 5
11 11Iron Maiden, 22 22 15m 7
2.01

The first route at Mt Iron, hence the name, from back when Guy couldn’t persuade anyone else to set foot in the place. Good rock and moves.

  • P1
  • 22
  • 15m
  • 7
12 12Out There on the Edge, 20 20 15m 5
0

A steep introduction, extended by Greg Johnston after a huge hold came off.

  • P1
  • 20
  • 15m
  • 5
13 13End Game, 20 20 14m 5
0

Time for another latté.

  • P1
  • 20
  • 14m
  • 5
Comments
UUID
 
573df9c6-8172-4023-a72e-8d216eea086f