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Iron Curtain

Type
Sector
Part of
Mt Iron

This crag has wild exposure and an exciting atmosphere. It is a great cliff for climbers wishing to push their limits. The rock is mostly good quality with nice texture, but the veneer is sometimes crumbly in places. Many of the routes are climbable when it is raining.

Rights credit
Wānaka Rock 2021
Rights
Copyright Wānaka Climbing Club and New Zealand Alpine Club
Walktime
15 min
Aspect
East
Approach

Walk north along the fence line for about 200m until you reach the crag entrance for Ironside, then walk uphill about 150m.

Add Place Add Route

Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
1 1Waking up the Missus, 20 20 20m 7
1.02

Steep climbing on good grips.

  • P1
  • 20
  • 20m
  • 7
2 2Atomic #26, 27 27 30m 7
2.01

Veer left from The Bastard from Lagoon Ave at the second bolt and climb bulge on some friendly grips.

  • P1
  • 27
  • 30m
  • 7
3 3The Bastard From Lagoon Ave, 25 25 25m 10
2.01

Cleaned and bolted by Dave Vass, then climbed all too easily.

  • P1
  • 25
  • 25m
  • 10
4 4The Good Bastard, 27 27 30m 11
3

Climb The Bastard from Gunn Road to the fifth bolt then left through a bulge. Finding the kneebar rest will help.

  • P1
  • 27
  • 30m
  • 11
5 5The Bastard from Gunn Road, 24 24 20m 11
3

Stay left at the fifth bolt for the grade. (Going right is about 23.) As so often, some poor sod does all the hard work and the route gets bagged by his mate.

  • P1
  • 24
  • 20m
  • 11
6 6The Complete Bastard, 27 27 30m 14
2.01

Extension of The Bastard from Gunn Road into a fine, feisty finish. Requires a 60m rope to lower.

  • P1
  • 27
  • 30m
  • 14
7 7I May Be Old But At Least I’m Crusty, 22 22 20m 7
2.01

Tricky start up amazing rock, then climb on to easier ground and jugs.

  • P1
  • 22
  • 20m
  • 7
8 8Mezzanine, 25 25 30m 10
2.01

Extension of I May Be Old… . Carefully manage your pump for this route. Requires a 60m rope to lower.

  • P1
  • 25
  • 30m
  • 10
9 9Right Bastard, 26 26 25m 10
2.01

Steep start to a hand jam then rest before final hard section.

  • P1
  • 26
  • 25m
  • 10
10 10Solid Energy, 24 24 25m 6
1.02

Ten years in the cleaning. Try not to fall off staring at the chains.

  • P1
  • 24
  • 25m
  • 6
11 11Spanking the Kat, 17 17 15m 6
0

Balance your way to the shared anchor with P&M.

  • P1
  • 17
  • 15m
  • 6
12 12Red Gecko, 27 27 25m 12
2.01

Climb Spanking The Kat till the last bolt then blast straight up orange headwall.

  • P1
  • 27
  • 25m
  • 12
13 13Pitchin’ & Moanin’, 19 19 15m 6
0

Climb gently overhanging, well-featured rock.

  • P1
  • 19
  • 15m
  • 6
Comments
UUID
 
a2615ad9-b2db-4665-a800-91afb3d8ed5b