These extremely steep routes are on good rock, but can be affected by water seepage and some grime. The crag is at its best (and driest) in summer. The river level tends to be lower then too. Avoid this area if you are hydrophobic.
From central Wānaka drive 18km to Hospital Flat, then another kilometre or two past it to the bridge over the Motatapu River. Immediately after the bridge, turn left into a small gravel quarry and drive up the hill to a grassy field overlooking the river. Take the track down to the river from the carpark, and cross the river.
Routes
Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Alert | Operations |
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1 | 1Crocadoos and Kangadiles, 22 | 22 | 10m | 4 | |||
Technical bridging up the overhanging corner.
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2 | 2Back, Crack and Sac Wax, 27 | 27 | 12m | 7 | |||
Steep moves to wild stuff up the arête.
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3 | 3River Rat, 25 | 25 | 12m | 5 | |||
Scurry left along the diagonal seam with huge pumpy moves to the very end.
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4 | 4Mr Toad, 28 | 28 | 12m | 6 | |||
Start RR then angle up and right on small grips.
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5 | 5Recidivisim, 27 | 27 | 12m | 5 | |||
This monstrously steep corner was prepared by Clinton and gallantly offered to Rachel. Thus inspired, Clinton dealt to it just minutes later.
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6 | 6Cane Toad, 28 | 28 | 12m | 6 | |||
The first half is juggy. The second is not.
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7 | 7Glen’s Route, 26 | 26 | 12m | 6 | |||
Angle up, left, then right through an overlap.
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8 | 8Slippery Toad, 28 | 28 | 12m | 1 | |||
Traverse the very overhanging prow, then up. This route is sometimes cut off by the river and may need a brush.
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9 | 9Up The Hole, 20 | 20 | 15m | 6 | |||
Up the hanging corner. his route is sometimes cut off by the river and may need a brush.
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