Skip to main content

Toad Hall

Type
Sector
Part of
Motatapu

These extremely steep routes are on good rock, but can be affected by water seepage and some grime. The crag is at its best (and driest) in summer. The river level tends to be lower then too. Avoid this area if you are hydrophobic.

Rights credit
Wānaka Rock 2021
Rights
Copyright Wānaka Climbing Club and New Zealand Alpine Club
Walktime
5 min
Approach

From central Wānaka drive 18km to Hospital Flat, then another kilometre or two past it to the bridge over the Motatapu River. Immediately after the bridge, turn left into a small gravel quarry and drive up the hill to a grassy field overlooking the river. Take the track down to the river from the carpark, and cross the river.

Add Place Add Route

Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
 The Last Parisian , 26 26 12m
3

Wade up the Motatapu River from Toad Hall. The route starts on the obvious large detached boulder.

Step off the boulder and traverse right along the wall above the waters edge for about twelve metres ending on the bank of the river.

Beautiful river polished schist and technical flowy climbing.

  • P1
  • 26
  • 12m
 The Last Australian, 27 27 20m
3
  • P1
  • 27
  • 20m

Extension to The Last Parisians Go behind the large detached boulder and get across the swimming hole to the other side of the Motatapu. Begin on the massive obvious jug, climb down and traverse slopers into a sneaky knee-bar rest. Recover and gun it to the beginning of The Last Parisians, recover fully and send it to the end. Effectively climbs the full wall rather than starting from the detached block. 8m V4 power endurance boulder problem into the V6 endurance problem.
1 1Crocadoos and Kangadiles, 22 22 10m 4
0

Technical bridging up the overhanging corner.

  • P1
  • 22
  • 10m
  • 4
2 2Back, Crack and Sac Wax, 27 27 12m 7
1.02

Steep moves to wild stuff up the arête.

  • P1
  • 27
  • 12m
  • 7
3 3River Rat, 25 25 12m 5
2.01

Scurry left along the diagonal seam with huge pumpy moves to the very end.

  • P1
  • 25
  • 12m
  • 5
4 4Mr Toad, 28 28 12m 6
3

Start RR then angle up and right on small grips.

  • P1
  • 28
  • 12m
  • 6
5 5Recidivisim, 27 27 12m 5
2.01

This monstrously steep corner was prepared by Clinton and gallantly offered to Rachel. Thus inspired, Clinton dealt to it just minutes later.

  • P1
  • 27
  • 12m
  • 5
6 6Cane Toad, 28 28 12m 6
2.01

The first half is juggy. The second is not.

  • P1
  • 28
  • 12m
  • 6
7 7Glen’s Route, 26 26 12m 6
1.02

Angle up, left, then right through an overlap.

  • P1
  • 26
  • 12m
  • 6
8 8Slippery Toad, 28 28 12m 1
0

Traverse the very overhanging prow, then up. This route is sometimes cut off by the river and may need a brush.

  • P1
  • 28
  • 12m
  • 1
9 9Up The Hole, 20 20 15m 6
0

Up the hanging corner. his route is sometimes cut off by the river and may need a brush.

  • P1
  • 20
  • 15m
  • 6
Comments
This place appears in
Wānaka Rock, 2021
Buy this guidebook
Attribution
Wānaka Climbing Club
UUID
 
13caa120-2a90-40f6-a999-2af4e2e327df