What’s the attraction? An all-season crag with a wide range of grades and climbing styles. Ease of access makes it particularly popular with families and school groups. If needed, there is a toilet just up on the terrace to the left.
About 500m after the Motatapu bridge, the crag is by the road and the carpark is on the right.
Routes
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Alert | Operations |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 1Slide It In, 17 | 17 | 15m | 1 |
|||
|
These two climbs are 50m up and left of the main crag, and left of the prominent arête. Climb a crack.
|
|||||||
| 1 | 1Wall Street, 18 | 18 | 15m | 5 |
|||
|
The first climb on the crag proper, which required a mega clean-a-thon. A good slab climb, despite appearances.
|
|||||||
| 2 | 2Delight, 19 | 19 | 15m | 9 |
|||
|
These two climbs are 50m up and left of the main crag, and left of the prominent arête. A good black face and then finish through the small roof.
|
|||||||
| 2 | 2Judge’s Wine, 16 | 16 | 15m | ||||
|
Climbed in the dark ages using pile jackets, beards, hexes and other dark arts.
|
|||||||
| 3 | 3Spider Pig, 12 | 12 | 20m | 7 |
|||
|
Up the corner. Bryan Moore
|
|||||||
| 4 | 4Elvis Trashes His Car, 15 | 15 | 15m | 6 |
|||
|
A slab, then a bulge, and up ledges. Watch out for the school bus.
|
|||||||
| 5 | 5Strawberry, 15 | 15 | 20m | 6 |
|||
|
Start below a corner crack; climb through the overlap and on to the slab.
|
|||||||
| 6 | 6Self Directed Learning Tool, 17 | 17 | 20m | 3 |
|||
|
Climb Strawberry to above the overlap and then take the left crack.
|
|||||||
| 7 | 7Ara Tuatahi, 16 | 16 | 20m | 7 |
|||
|
First path. The tough start is worth it. Now diagonal up through the overlap.
|
|||||||
| 8 | 8Practising Arms, 20 | 20 | 20m | 5 |
|||
|
The bouldery start leads to a bulging arête and thin crack.
|
|||||||
| 9 | 9Aspiring Arseholes, 16 | 16 | 15m | ||||
|
One of the first routes climbed in the valley. The corner crack on natural pro.
|
|||||||
| 10 | 10Slightly English, 18 | 18 | 15m | 6 |
|||
|
Hanging corner to pockets through an overlap. A climb with built in rhythm.
|
|||||||
| 11 | 11Nasal Excavations, 18 | 18 | 20m | 6 |
|||
|
This hanging corner gets you on an angling ramp, then up the steep pillar.
|
|||||||
| 12 | 12The Ramp, 18 | 18 | 12m | 3 |
|||
|
The crack angles up and right. Pumpy and giggly.
|
|||||||
| 13 | 13Papal’s Nasal, 18 | 18 | 12m | 3 |
|||
|
Steep crack, then angle out right.
|
|||||||
| 14 | 14Arêtenaphobia, 20 | 20 | 11m | 3 |
|||
|
A piece of history: the first power-drilled route in Wānaka.
|
|||||||
| 15 | 15Flying Guts, 26 | 26 | 10m | 3 |
|||
|
A steep face climb with a tricky move (or two).
|
|||||||