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Roadside Attraction Left

Type
Part of

What’s the attraction? An all-season crag with a wide range of grades and climbing styles. Ease of access makes it particularly popular with families and school groups. If needed, there is a toilet just up on the terrace to the left.

Image
Rights credit
Wānaka Rock 2021
Rights
Copyright Wānaka Climbing Club and New Zealand Alpine Club
Walktime
1 min
Approach

About 500m after the Motatapu bridge, the crag is by the road and the carpark is on the right.

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
1 1Slide It In, 17 17 15m 1
0

These two climbs are 50m up and left of the main crag, and left of the prominent arête. Climb a crack.


  • P1
  • 17
  • 15m
  • 1
  • Trad

1 1Wall Street, 18 18 15m 5
1.02

The first climb on the crag proper, which required a mega clean-a-thon. A good slab climb, despite appearances.


  • P1
  • 18
  • 15m
  • 5

2 2Delight, 19 19 15m 9
0

These two climbs are 50m up and left of the main crag, and left of the prominent arête. A good black face and then finish through the small roof.


  • P1
  • 19
  • 15m
  • 9

2 2Judge’s Wine, 16 16 15m
1.02

Climbed in the dark ages using pile jackets, beards, hexes and other dark arts.


  • P1
  • 16
  • 15m
  • Trad

3 3Spider Pig, 12 12 20m 7
0

Up the corner. Bryan Moore


  • P1
  • 12
  • 20m
  • 7

4 4Elvis Trashes His Car, 15 15 15m 6
1.02

A slab, then a bulge, and up ledges. Watch out for the school bus.


  • P1
  • 15
  • 15m
  • 6

5 5Strawberry, 15 15 20m 6
1.02

Start below a corner crack; climb through the overlap and on to the slab.


  • P1
  • 15
  • 20m
  • 6

6 6Self Directed Learning Tool, 17 17 20m 3
0

Climb Strawberry to above the overlap and then take the left crack.


  • P1
  • 17
  • 20m
  • 3
  • Trad

7 7Ara Tuatahi, 16 16 20m 7
2.01

First path. The tough start is worth it. Now diagonal up through the overlap.


  • P1
  • 16
  • 20m
  • 7

8 8Practising Arms, 20 20 20m 5
0

The bouldery start leads to a bulging arête and thin crack.


  • P1
  • 20
  • 20m
  • 5

9 9Aspiring Arseholes, 16 16 15m
2.01

One of the first routes climbed in the valley. The corner crack on natural pro.


  • P1
  • 16
  • 15m
  • Trad

10 10Slightly English, 18 18 15m 6
2.01

Hanging corner to pockets through an overlap. A climb with built in rhythm.


  • P1
  • 18
  • 15m
  • 6

11 11Nasal Excavations, 18 18 20m 6
1.02

This hanging corner gets you on an angling ramp, then up the steep pillar.


  • P1
  • 18
  • 20m
  • 6

12 12The Ramp, 18 18 12m 3
0

The crack angles up and right. Pumpy and giggly.


  • P1
  • 18
  • 12m
  • 3

13 13Papal’s Nasal, 18 18 12m 3
1.02

Steep crack, then angle out right.


  • P1
  • 18
  • 12m
  • 3

14 14Arêtenaphobia, 20 20 11m 3
1.02

A piece of history: the first power-drilled route in Wānaka.


  • P1
  • 20
  • 11m
  • 3

15 15Flying Guts, 26 26 10m 3
0

A steep face climb with a tricky move (or two).


  • P1
  • 26
  • 10m
  • 3

Comments
This place appears in
Attribution
Wānaka Climbing Club
UUID
 
f3f98a86-2197-4afc-89a7-aa8d06b9fee3