Riverside | ClimbNZ

Type

Part of

The main attraction, at the end of the track that continues after Beginners Slab. This perma-chalked white wall is an extremely popular spot with a concentration of great routes in the mid-20s. It faces east so is an all season crag, climbable on hot afternoons and on cool mornings.
Please use the toilet at the parking area.

Rights credit

Wānaka Rock 2021

Rights

Walktime

5 min

Access

From central Wānaka drive 18km to Hospital Flat, then another kilometre or two to the Motatapu River bridge. Immediately after the bridge, turn left into a small gravel quarry and drive up the hill to a grassy field overlooking the river.
The track down towards the river is for swimming (don’t miss the very cool swim/canyon jaunt upstream).

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality
	Te Looza, 28	28	25m	9	0
A link up follows Engorger to the ramp, then thin moves followed by an undercling/side pull into Lollapalooza. Big air potential. P1 28 25m 9
	Lolla Alors, 28	28	25m	9	0
A link up starts Lollapalooza but climbs left across Te Timatanga to finish up Zoot Alors. P1 28 25m 9
1	1Microcosmos, 25	25	14m	6	2.01
Starting off the boulder, climb the white face through horizontal overlaps. Dave Vass P1 25 14m 6
2	2Lightning Head			6	1.02
Face climbing on white rock to a hard crux, then hang left to the anchor. P1 m 6
3	3Honey I Blew Up the Atoll, 22	22	19m	7	2.01
Big holds get you started on the white face, and then continue on pockets to a puzzling roof. If you stop at lower anchor just below roof it’s 21 and two stars. P1 22 19m 7
4	4Hasta Luego, 24	24	19m	9	2.01
From the rock pile, climb a white face and through a small rooflet. A climb so cunning you could pin a tail on it and call it a weasel. P1 24 19m 9
5	5The Engorger, 24	24	25m	7	3
Massive! Climb over the bulge to a ramp leading to pockets, then power left up the overhanging corner. P1 24 25m 7
6	6Zoot Alors, 24	24	25m	7	3
Start as for The Engorger, then climb right up the steep face. P1 24 25m 7
7	7Te Tīmatanga, 30	30	25m	7	1.02
Once again, the same start to the ramp, then climb up and right on the ultra-thin face. P1 30 25m 7
8	8Lollapalooza, 25	25	25m	9	3
The initial slab ends abruptly with a dynamic move over the bulge. From the ledge, tackle the steep face and hanging corner, and then power up, right and out of sight. Rowdy noise fest, onya! P1 25 25m 9
9	9Changes In Time, 25	25	25m	10	2.01
Find your way through steep ground then climb the pocketed arête and overhang beyond. P1 25 25m 10
10	10Moana Magic, 27	27	25m	10	1.02
Start as for Changes in Time then follow curvy crack to feisty and dynamic roof moves. P1 27 25m 10
11	11Inshallah, 25	25	25m	7	1.02
Climb the arête on pocketed rock to the ledge and then, God willing, climb left and up to burly roof moves. P1 25 25m 7
12	12Anti Walk Device, 23	23	25m	6	2.01
Start Inshallah then up and right to a stout finish through the roof. An alternative start climbs the black and white face with two bolts – Dave Vass P1 23 25m 6
13	13Jack Be Nimble, 23	23	25m	6	3
Pose on the black and white wall, quiver on the semi-detached pillar, then gently run it out to finish up and right on a steep face. Don’t fall off the candlestick! P1 23 25m 6
14	14Smokin’ O.P.’s, 23	23	15m	6	0
Black streak on the front face of the pedestal jutting out from the cliff. P1 23 15m 6
15	15Plunket, 15	15	25m	6	0
Up the wide corner crack, then traverse left to a ramp and up. P1 15 25m 6
16	16Lambs To The Slaughter, 15	15		7	0
Up the right leaning corner, ending near the start of Crikey Love! P1 15 m 7
17	17Dirty Deeds Done Cheap		19m	7	0
Face left of You Crack Me Up, diagonals to the right for the first half so with a permadraw to help cleaning. P1 19m 7
18	18You Crack Me Up, 20	20	25m	3	1.02
Follow a crack to the overlap, then easier climbing up the ramp and out left to the anchor. P1 20 25m 3 Trad
19	19Just Go Nuts, 18	18	20m	3	0
A direct start to You Crack Me Up: bridging then up ledges to the overlap. Brendon Swan, Jerry Murray-Orr, 2003 P1 18 20m 3 Trad
20	20Crikey Love! Better Get the Kids Inside I Think I’m Falling Off, 23	23	15m	4	1.02
From the You Crack Me Up anchor, face climb up and right to a sporty finish. P1 23 15m 4
21	21Cookie Time, 24	24	40m	9	1.02
Start You Crack Me Up or Just Go Nuts, but avoid the anchor by climbing a thin seam and white face to finish right of the small roof. Take medium wires, long slings and plenty of courage. P1 24 40m 9 Trad
22	22The Behemoth, 13	13	15m	3	0
Finger crack cleaned, bolted and climbed by Janis the Latvian aka The Behemoth. P1 13 15m 3 Trad
23	23Great for the Missus, 19	19	25m	12	1.02
P1: (14) An excellent wander up the slab and through a steep juggy section to the atmospheric belay. P2: (19) A thin, sequential crack and flake. P1 19 25m 12

Images

Comments

This place appears in

Wānaka Rock, 2021

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Attribution

Wānaka Climbing Club

UUID

4a9e6f51-e1f6-4c6a-b63e-efbf1185d777