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Garden Bar

Type
Sector
Part of
Motatapu

A peaceful and shady spot next to the river, the Garden Bar lives up to its name with a buffet selection of routes on mostly excellent rock.

Rights credit
Wānaka Rock 2021
Rights
Copyright Wānaka Climbing Club and New Zealand Alpine Club
Walktime
5 min
Approach

From central Wānaka drive 18km to Hospital Flat, then another kilometre or two past it to the bridge over the Motatapu River. Immediately after the bridge, turn left into a small gravel quarry and drive up the hill to a grassy field overlooking the river.
The furthest left of the crags on the carpark side of the river, the easiest access is by taking the track down to the river and wading up. Otherwise abseil from Riverside.

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
1 1Glen’s, 15 15 25m 8
0

Climbs a mossy slab to the corner, then vanishes over a bulge. The reward for your efforts is an expansive view upvalley.

  • P1
  • 15
  • 25m
  • 8
2 2Jug of Speights, 17 17 25m 8
0

Sequential and cruxy slab climbing, firstly on small holds and then bigger features. Chipped.

  • P1
  • 17
  • 25m
  • 8
3 3Just Add Sausages, 25 25 15m 5
2.01

Climb the blunt arête. Tenuous and technical.

  • P1
  • 25
  • 15m
  • 5
4 4Who the Fuck is Nick Cradock?, 23 23 25m 8
2.01

If you have to ask, you can’t afford him. Climb up to the ramp/corner system, then a few devious and sequential moves lurk on well-featured orange and black rock.

  • P1
  • 23
  • 25m
  • 8
5 5The Oatmeal Savage, 22 22 15m 5
2.01

Start Who The Fuck? but locate a faint crack heading up and left through the overlap.

  • P1
  • 22
  • 15m
  • 5
6 6Twister, 20 20 25m 8
1.02

Start Who The Fuck? but continue up the ramp to short steep wall, climbing to a break before turning the steep arête to the anchor.

  • P1
  • 20
  • 25m
  • 8
7 7Twisted, 26 26 10m 4
0

From Twister, climb the short, steep, black face on thin edges.

  • P1
  • 26
  • 10m
  • 4
8 8Twisting by the Pool, 14 14 30m 9
0

Start Who The Fuck…? And continue to top of the right-angling ramp and corner system.

  • P1
  • 14
  • 30m
  • 9
9 9Yang, 17 17 15m 4
0

Start off the block then climb up the face and right side of the groove on holds that tend to stay dirty.

  • P1
  • 17
  • 15m
  • 4
10 10Yin, 22 22 15m 4
1.02

Starts in a black groove. Short, pumpy and seldom climbed.

  • P1
  • 22
  • 15m
  • 4
Comments
This place appears in
Wānaka Rock, 2021
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Attribution
Wānaka Climbing Club
UUID
 
9c931656-1037-42da-b415-94d77bea58d1