Far Side | ClimbNZ

Type

Part of

A high concentration of quality routes with a few slabs, but mostly on steep, good quality and well-featured rock. A peaceful setting for early climbing in the sun or to wind down away from the crowds in the evening.

Rights credit

Wānaka Rock 2021

Rights

Walktime

6 min

Access

About 500m after the Motatapu bridge, there is a crag by the road and carpark on the right. This is Roadside Attraction. Cross the fence at the stile, and if you follow the trail left up onto the next terrace, Al Cove and then Farside are within 300m. See, not that far actually. They’re described from left (i.e. furthest from the road) to right. There is a toilet just up on the terrace 100m left of the stile. No camping and no fires are allowed.

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality
1	1Pam’s Instant, 17	17	11m	4	0
Up the face and arête on the short wall. P1 17 11m 4
2	2Fine Ground, 22	22	12m	4	2.01
The intriguing overhanging arête and crack feature. P1 22 12m 4
3	3Short Black, 26	26	15m	4	0
Start Fine Ground but then grind up rightwards. P1 26 15m 4
4	4Grinder, 23	23	20m	6	0
From the Fine Ground anchor, climb up through steep bulges. P1 23 20m 6
5	5Footrot Flats, 16	16	10m	3	0
Face climb to corner. P1 16 10m 3
6	6Yankee Doodle Dancy, 18	18	10m	3	0
The short, steep arête. P1 18 10m 3
7	7Bloodline, 19	19	13m	5	1.02
Climb into the awkward pod, then break right up and left on jugs. P1 19 13m 5
8	8Girl on the Run, 22	22	13m	4	1.02
Steep face moves, then angle up and right on nice, juggy holds. P1 22 13m 4
9	9On Bidet, 25	25	13m	5	0
Climb onto the ramp and power up the steep face. P1 25 13m 5
10	10Bogans, 17	17	18m	7	0
Arête and broken face climb. A direct start has been added for added confusion. P1 17 18m 7
11	11Land of Milk and Honeys, 23	23	20m	7	1.02
Up the wall then arête, heave left onto the ledge where the headwall awaits. P1 23 20m 7
12	12Thanks Olearia, 24	24	20m		0
Bouldery moves up a steep corner and arête, followed by a thin crack. P1 24 20m Trad
13	13The Crystal Line, 21	21	20m	6	1.02
Follow the crack on good pro. P1 21 20m 6
14	14Back to Terra Firma, 20	20	18m	6	1.02
Climbs the face right of the wide crack over various bulges. P1 20 18m 6
15	15Girl Trouble, 18	18	20m	6	1.02
Something for all the socially challenged young men out there: Corner, dihedral, crack, broken rock and steep face moves. P1 18 20m 6
16	16In Flagrante Delicto, 19	19	20m	5	2.01
A wandering climb up the left side of the bulging white face and arête. P1 19 20m 5
17	17Jock the Frotterer, 18	18	20m	5	2.01
Keep to the left of the arête on well-spaced but capacious holds. P1 18 20m 5
18	18Eyore’s Crack, 17	17	20m		0
The corner crack was climbed eons ago and later revamped by the polytech. P1 17 20m Trad
19	19Chairman Ed, 17	17	20m	2	0
Start the short corner and face, then join Eyore’s Crack. P1 17 20m 2 Trad
20	20Beyond Boredom & Anxiety, 16	16	20m	7	0
Short crack to a ledge, then good face climbing. P1 16 20m 7
21	21Clean Me, 16	16	20m	7	0
A pleasant climb up the black slab, kindly cleaned by the polytechers. P1 16 20m 7
22	22Larceny, 17	17	20m	6	0
P1 17 20m 6
23	23Rewind the Hateman, 18	18	20m	6	0
Thin face moves then through overlap. P1 18 20m 6

Comments

This place appears in

Wānaka Rock, 2021

Buy this guidebook

Attribution

Wānaka Climbing Club

UUID

dd2bb114-df13-4d28-ac32-17f0dd2131c9