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Beginners Slab

Type
Sector
Part of
Motatapu

The slab obvious from the carpark, hopefully still with its picnic table.

Rights credit
Wānaka Rock 2021
Rights
Copyright Wānaka Climbing Club and New Zealand Alpine Club
Walktime
1 min
Approach

From central Wānaka drive 18km to Hospital Flat, then another kilometre or two past it to the bridge over the Motatapu River. Immediately after the bridge, turn left into a small gravel quarry and drive up the hill to a grassy field overlooking the river. The Beginners Slab is the obvious black wall beside the carpark.

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
6 6We Be Jamming, 19 19 12m 5
0

Starts from lower than the previous routes. The permadraw is to clip into when cleaning so you don’t slam into the bank.

  • P1
  • 19
  • 12m
  • 5
7 7A Three Pipe Problem, 16 16 10m 4
0

Starts up the slope to the right of WBJ.

  • P1
  • 16
  • 10m
  • 4
8 8Cryptology, 19 19 10m 3
1.02

Left of the white streak. Thin holds, then mantle the ledge below the big roof.

  • P1
  • 19
  • 10m
  • 3
9 9Grandma Funk, 16 16 10m 3
1.02

Just right of the white streak. Short but sweet and shakin’ that ass.

  • P1
  • 16
  • 10m
  • 3
10 10Zoftig, 12 12 10m
0

The arête at the left end of the wall. Avoid at all costs: the hangers were removed due to the imminent collapse of the flake. Still possible at your own risk on natural pro, but you’d be better off alpine climbing.

  • P1
  • 12
  • 10m
  • Trad
11 11Super Size Me, 15 15 10m 4
0

Cruise the jugs until the wall steepens and holds diminish. Jerry Murray-Orr, 2005

  • P1
  • 15
  • 10m
  • 4
12 12Progressive Leadership, 14 14 8m 4
1.02

An easy start, then head right at the bulge and cruise your way to the chains. A good beginner lead.

  • P1
  • 14
  • 8m
  • 4
13 13Right Ascension, 14 14 10m 3
1.02

Up the slab into a pleasant hand crack.

  • P1
  • 14
  • 10m
  • 3
14 14Generation X, 16 16 10m 3
1.02

An easy start, a delicate slab, and then a steep wall.

  • P1
  • 16
  • 10m
  • 3
15 15Occupational Therapy, 14 14 10m 4
0

Slab and diagonal crack leading to a finish on steep jugs.

  • P1
  • 14
  • 10m
  • 4
16 16Dog Leg, 12 12 10m 3
0

Easy climbing up steps and corner to ledge.

  • P1
  • 12
  • 10m
  • 3
17 17Infinite Inveigling, 16 16 10m 4
1.02

Relatively tricky start to sustained face climbing.

  • P1
  • 16
  • 10m
  • 4
18 18The Valsalva Manoeuvre, 16 16 10m 3
0

Short, steep start followed by easier climbing.

  • P1
  • 16
  • 10m
  • 3
19 19Purposeful Wandering, 16 16 9m 4
0

To the right of TVM.

  • P1
  • 16
  • 9m
  • 4
20 20NAB, 16 16 8m 2
0

Further right again.

  • P1
  • 16
  • 8m
  • 2
Comments
This place appears in
Wānaka Rock, 2021
Buy this guidebook
Attribution
Wānaka Climbing Club
UUID
 
e5730603-f072-4a79-bed0-ffb53e6058d8