Al Cove | ClimbNZ

Type

Part of

This tranquil setting hides a crag of two halves and a bit. There is a quantity of excellent routes here on good rock, the crag is sheltered, and most routes stay dry or dry very quickly after a light rain.

Rights credit

Wānaka Rock 2021

Rights

Walktime

3 min

Approach

About 500m after the Motatapu bridge, there is a crag by the road and carpark on the right. This is Roadside Attraction. Cross the fence at the stile, and if you follow the trail left up onto the next terrace, Al Cove and then Farside are within 300m.
No camping and no fires.

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality
1	1What’s for Pudding, 20	20	10m	4	1.02
A face climb up grey pocketed rock. P1 20 10m 4
2	2The Imposter, 22	22	15m	5	2.01
Beefy. Climb up grey pocketed wall just left of the overhang. Then up and right through overhang. After this eases, angle left and up through another steep section (crux). May be dirty. P1 22 15m 5
3	3Handful of Scroggin, 21	21	15m	5	1.02
Up overhanging crack to right edge of roof. Scramble right and up steep headwall. P1 21 15m 5
4	4Dysbiosis, 18	18		5	0
The arête left of Vroom. P1 18 m 5
5	5Vroom, 24	24	15m	3	0
Under the roof beside the track. Spot the glue in bolt. P1 24 15m 3
6	6Alchemy, 23	23	40m	18	2.01
A mega-pitch, needing a seconder and a twisted attitude. Start in the offwidth left of Ole, then take the right-leaning crack of Ole, into the crux sequence of Dr Holdfinder up to the ledge, then keep heading right across the whole wall to the last three bolts or so of Ferocious Weasel before finishing up Feral Fodder. P1 23 40m 18
7	7Ole, 18	18	15m	6	1.02
Take the slab to the right-angling cracks and ramp with a thought-provoking finish. P1 18 15m 6
8	8Where’s Dr Holdfinder?, 23	23	20m	6	2.01
It’s easy when you know where the holds are.’ A slab, pocketed crack and ledges to sequential face moves. P1 23 20m 6
9	9The Colonel’s Secret, 22	22	20m	6	2.01
Slab and slick face climbing to a pumpy hand jam crack. P1 22 20m 6
10	10Chinese Hospitality, 19	19	20m	6	2.01
And faxes from the edge. Mount the block, then angle up and right using a crack. P1 19 20m 6
11	11Ferocious Weasel, 22	22	20m	8	2.01
Techno corner crack and roof. Join Feral Fodder for a mega long route! P1 22 20m 8
12	12The Fearsome Flounder, 24	24	20m	8	1.02
Cruise the slab to face and arête climbing, then up through the roof moves. P1 24 20m 8
13	13Misguyded, 25	25	20m	7	1.02
Climb grey and black rock to a horizontal roof. P1 25 20m 7
14	14Quick Hit, 24	24	20m	8	1.02
Climb the left arête into the Roche Moutonnée roof. P1 24 20m 8
15	15Roche Moutonnée, 23	23	20m	8	3
Scramble up to a ledge, then cruise up the wall and out the extended big roof. P1 23 20m 8
16	16Bob the Builder, 25	25	15m	4	2.01
Powerful moves up this steep face to a thin and technical finish. P1 25 15m 4
17	17Huha, 26	26	15m	6	2.01
The steep black streak hides a bouldery start and then thin crimps. P1 26 15m 6
18	18Cunning Linguistics, 20	20	20m	5	2.01
A corner system and face climb with intimidating moves and a roof. Suffers from water seepage down the crack, causing some grime on the bottom moves. P1 20 20m 5
19	19Reefer Madness, 21	21	20m	7	1.02
The steep yellow wall has some thin moves but is followed by nice jugs. P1 21 20m 7
20	20The Army Route, 19	19	20m	5	1.02
Shallow slab corner with a few thin moves. P1 19 20m 5
21	21Screamin’ Nor’wester, 24	24	20m	5	1.02
A hard start to the blunt arête and face. P1 24 20m 5
22	22Girls, Girls, Girls, 23	23	15m	3	0
Either head up past Sunday Roast or climb Chinese Hospitality. Corner and finger crack with pumpy moves. P1 23 15m 3 Trad
23	23Do You Do, 27	27	15m	5	1.02
Either head up past Sunday Roast or climb Chinese Hospitality. Steep black face with hard and pumpy climbing. P1 27 15m 5
24	24Shuffling Madness, 24	24	15m	5	1.02
Either head up past Sunday Roast or climb Chinese Hospitality. Shuffling will get you nowhere. Crank up the corner system. P1 24 15m 5
25	25Feral Fodder, 18	18	10m	6	2.01
From the Ferocious Weasel anchors, launch onto this exhilarating arête and crack. The first route at Al Cove. P1 18 10m 6
26	26Three Degrees, 27	27	15m	5	2.01
From the Ferocious Weasel anchors, follow the black and white divide on excellent moves to a beefy finish. P1 27 15m 5
27	27To Me Lichen, 26	26	20m	6	2.01
From the Ferocious Weasel anchors, steep face climbing, two roofs and a lichenous finish. What’s not to like? P1 26 20m 6
28	28Roger the Roofer, 28	28	10m	4	2.01
He is a gymnast and a stuntman too. Extension to Bob the Builder. P1 28 10m 4
29	29Dynonamics, 22	22	20m	6	1.02
From the Cunning Linguistics anchor, scramble up the ramp and climb the right side of the steep buttress. P1 22 20m 6

Comments

This place appears in

Wānaka Rock, 2021

Buy this guidebook

Attribution

Wānaka Climbing Club

UUID

2669882d-7413-41e3-80e1-a33f77be9aba