An amazingly scenic crag with great climbing on hard black rock. Many of the routes are multi-pitch, adding to the attraction. The cliff is exposed to the wind and it gets mighty hot in full summer sun.
This crag is on private farmland. There is no vehicle access; don’t block the farm gate and do not disturb stock. Drive about 3km past the swing bridge crossing the river, until you spot the big split waterfall, south of the road next to a large hunk of roofy black and white rock. It’s about another 3km from here to the road end at Raspberry Flat. From the farm gate northeast of the crag, walk towards the waterfall for about 300m, and then up a short slope with boulders and scrub to the base of the cliff.
Routes
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Alert | Operations |
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| 1 | 1Falls Left, 20 | 20 | 25m | 11 |
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Right of the main waterfall, trend up and left with excellent moves on great rock.
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| 2 | 2Falls Upper Left, 22 | 22 | 25m | 11 |
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Climb the slab, trending up and left. Sustained technical climbing.
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| 3 | 3Falls Middle, 18 | 18 | 25m | 11 |
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Start left and angle left on a long face climb up black rock.
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| 4 | 4Falls Right, 19 | 19 | 25m | 10 |
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Start right on a long face climb up black rock.
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| 5 | 523 Stone Street, 23 | 23 | 75m | 10 |
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Climb the arête and buttress right of the big white corner. Take a 50m rope and 10 quickdraws. P1: (20) Angle up and right over nice black rock, then back left to the anchor. P2: (20) A bouldery move to begin, then angle left to easier face climbing. P3: (23) Angle up left on the arête, then angle up the face right, making thin, technical moves. P4: (18) Cruise the black face and grey slab to the finish anchors. Abseil the route and enjoy the experience of this multi-year effort spearheaded by Glen.
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