Copyright Wānaka Climbing Club and New Zealand Alpine Club
Walktime
10–20 min
Approach
This crag is on private farmland. There is no vehicle access; don’t block the farm gate and do not disturb stock. Drive about 3km past the swing bridge crossing the river, until you spot the big split waterfall, south of the road next to a large hunk of roofy black and white rock. (It’s about another 3km from here to the road end at Raspberry Flat.) From the farm gate walk south about 300m, initially across the flat and then up the hillside paddock towards a steep, bush-filled gully east of Wishbone Falls proper. Scramble up the gully about 100m, on the left side of the creek, to reach the base of the cliff.
Adventure climbing up the big black face. Take two 50m ropes and 12 quickdraws P1: (20) Smooth black slab and corner system with a bunch of tricky moves. P2: (16) Low-angle broken rock, angling up and left. P3: (20) Up the steep face, with bulges. P4: (19) A steep face with technical climbing. P5: (25) A thin slab leads to the overhanging corner, then up a slab angling right to finish. Descent is by abseiling the route to the top of the second pitch, then a 45m abseil out right to the start.
Adventure climbing up a corner and slabby face. Take two 50m ropes and 13 quickdraws. P1: (19) Climb the corner to the anchor. P2: (20) Continue up the corner. P3: (22) Face climbing, with some hard slab moves interspersed by grass ledges. P4: (23) Face climbing culminates in some hard slab moves. Descend the route with two 45m abseils.