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Second Wall

Type
Sector
Part of
Kai Whaka Pai Memorial Crag
Rights credit
Wānaka Rock 2021
Rights
Copyright Wānaka Climbing Club and New Zealand Alpine Club
Approach

The access track is on private property. From the Hospital Flat car park, cross the road, then the stile, and follow the marked track northeast towards the far cliffs and a farm gate about 500m away. For the upper tier, cross the fence and the stream, and walk up the hill around the corner, following the track along the base of the various rock features.

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
3 3Liss Route, 12 12 15m 6
1.02

The first route on the access track. Climb the clean and aesthetic arête.

  • P1
  • 12
  • 15m
  • 6
4 4Moonlight Crack 17m 6
0

Climb the steep crack then left onto face.

  • P1
  • 17m
  • 6
5 5Under the Moonlight, 15 15 16m 8
2.01

A bit of slab, crack and face. Something for everyone.

  • P1
  • 15
  • 16m
  • 8
6 6Arêtenaphilia, 13 13 20m 5
0

Up and around the steep arête, then onto the slab.

  • P1
  • 13
  • 20m
  • 5
  • Trad
7 7Phormium Tenax, 12 12 12m 8
1.02

This well-protected slab route has a crux overlap. Good for beginners.

  • P1
  • 12
  • 12m
  • 8
8 8Kiddies Corner, 12 12 12m
0

Corner dihedral with lots of excellent natural protection.

  • P1
  • 12
  • 12m
  • Trad
9 9Aargle Bargle, 17 17 10m 5
0

Although the arête is bolted it also has some very poor natural protection. Take care.

  • P1
  • 17
  • 10m
  • 5
  • Trad
10 10Strike!, 14 14 15m
3

Corner dihedral with excellent natural protection. Good fun.

  • P1
  • 14
  • 15m
  • Trad
11 11Superunknown, 13 13 20m
0

Varied and interesting climbing past a shrubbery.

  • P1
  • 13
  • 20m
  • Trad
12 12Friction in the Kitchen, 16 16 18m
1.02

The thin seam takes small natural protection and requires big courage.

  • P1
  • 16
  • 18m
  • Trad
13 13Pulp Fiction, 15 15 18m 7
2.01

Steep face climbing on big grips. Note that it’s best to clean the route on abseil.

  • P1
  • 15
  • 18m
  • 7
14 14Nice & Sleazy Does it All the Time, 17 17 18m
0

Bridge up the slightly overhanging corner to a run-out slab finish.

  • P1
  • 17
  • 18m
  • Trad
15 15Spring Fever, 14 14 18m 6
0

Climb right of the corner then further right up the slab. Take long slings on your draws to avoid rope drag.

  • P1
  • 14
  • 18m
  • 6
16 16Spring Board, 15 15 18m 6
0

Direct start with same finish as Spring Fever.

  • P1
  • 15
  • 18m
  • 6
17 17No Spring Chicken, 16 16 18m 6
0

Diagonal right to left with same finish as Spring Fever.

  • P1
  • 16
  • 18m
  • 6
Comments
This place appears in
Wānaka Rock, 2021
Buy this guidebook
Attribution
Wānaka Climbing Club
UUID
 
aa243ea5-b092-470f-86c1-8fc7dad01f6b