A steep wall with big overhangs, wild exposure and amazing views. Generally, the rock quality is good. The crag has a wide range of grades but on the whole suits more experienced climbers.
From the Hospital Flat car park, walk east along the fence line for about 350m until you reach the access track for the Tombstone area. Walk uphill about 300m, passing all the big monolith boulders.
Caution! Access the upper routes by either a short, exposed scramble from the left of the crag, or an exposed, direct approach with a rope hand-line for help.
Routes
Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Operations |
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1 | 1Over-Whale-Ming, 17 | 17 | 15m | 7 | ||
Actuwhaley it’s pretty pun-y.
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2 | 2Stretch Your Flippers, 18 | 18 | 12m | 5 | ||
Use the first three holds of Blubber on your right, then more independently.
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3 | 3Blubber, 19 | 19 | 15m | 5 | ||
Climb the short black wall through a groove and overlap.
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4 | 4Ambergris, 23 | 23 | 16m | 6 | ||
Thin face to steep corner and mantle finish, don’t slip!
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5 | 5Beached As, 18 | 18 | 15m | |||
Up the corner with a hand crack to the rooflet.
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6 | 6Whale Rider, 24 | 24 | 16m | 5 | ||
Problematic start then more easily to the top.
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7 | 7Hobo Humping Slobo Babe, 23 | 23 | 15m | 5 | ||
Start on the arête, then right to a fingery finish.
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8 | 8Flensing The Stone, 24 | 24 | 15m | 6 | ||
Excellent face climbing according to the first ascentionist.
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9 | 9No Thanks I’d Rather Walk, 20 | 20 | 20m | 8 | ||
Climb the face to the curving, overhanging corner.
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10 | 10Harpoon, 27 | 27 | 20m | 8 | ||
Start No Thanks I’d Rather Walk. Veer right through the bulge and onto the headwall.
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11 | 11Moby Dick, 25 | 25 | 20m | 8 | ||
A Wānaka classic! Start on the face and veer left onto the thin headwall.
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12 | 1210 Boy Scouts, 24 | 24 | 20m | 8 | ||
The white steak requires sustained cranking.
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13 | 13Via Frittata, 18 | 18 | 20m | 9 | ||
Traverse the lip of the big roof. Exposed and a bit pumpy. Requires a second to clean.
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14 | 14Exotic Sushi, 21 | 21 | 15m | 5 | ||
A good position. Step right of Via Frittata, traverse right and through the roof.
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15 | 15Guaranteed Dolphin Friendly, 18 | 18 | 20m | 9 | ||
A slab route on dark rock below the big overhang.
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16 | 16Killa Whale, 25 | 25 | 20m | 7 | ||
Steep face to rock-over.
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17 | 17Thieving New Mexican, 25 | 25 | 20m | 6 | ||
Take the white slab to the prominent roof crack under the arch.
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18 | 18Ocean And Stone, 20 | 20 | 20m | 8 | ||
Climb 5m of easy slab then the steep faint crack line that leads to a small rooflet, turn this on the right and finish up the finger crack to the top.
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