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Tombstone Boulders

Type

The other large boulders in the near vicinity of the Tombstone.

Image
Rights credit
Wānaka Rock 2021
Rights
Copyright Wānaka Climbing Club and New Zealand Alpine Club
Approach

It’s hard to miss the monolithic Tombstone boulder. From the Hospital Flat car park, walk about 350m east along the fence line until you reach the steep access track. Walk uphill about 50m. A further network of tracks connects the other large boulders in the near vicinity.

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
1 1Top Rope Problems, 12 12 10m
0

These grade 10 to 12 climbs are great for beginners.


  • P1
  • 12
  • 10m

2 2The Radiator, 12 12 12m 4
2.01

Classic slab moves. One of Glen’s faves.


  • P1
  • 12
  • 12m
  • 4

3 3Drop the Clutch, 25 25 12m 3
0

Strenuous moves to the first clip, then power left up the arête and steep face. Don’t get sucked onto the slab face after the second clip, it doesn’t count.


  • P1
  • 25
  • 12m
  • 3

4 4Engage, 29 29 12m 4
1.02

A steep and powerful route trending up and left.


  • P1
  • 29
  • 12m
  • 4

5 5Hip Hugger, 25 25 10m 4
0

Sustained power endurance climbing with dynamic moves. Climb into the groove, then up and out left on a rail to the arête. Watch for loose block!


  • P1
  • 25
  • 10m
  • 4

6 6The Gates of Moria, 14 14 5m 3
0

A short slab on black rock in the shade. A good beginner’s lead.


  • P1
  • 14
  • 5m
  • 3

7 7Meat Cleaver, 21 21 12m 4
0

Tougher than it looks. Up the steep and fairly smooth wall.


  • P1
  • 21
  • 12m
  • 4

8 8First Light, 12 12 12m 4
1.02

Begin on the slab near the arête and wander up onto the face. Another good one for beginners.


  • P1
  • 12
  • 12m
  • 4

9 9Frog Legs, 13 13 12m 4
0

The slab has a thin start leading to bigger holds.


  • P1
  • 13
  • 12m
  • 4

10 10Nine Months Later, 18 18 12m 4
1.02

The slab route has a technical start and a perplexing finish.


  • P1
  • 18
  • 12m
  • 4

11 11Cast Off, 21 21 12m 4
0

Allan crawled to the base of the route, while injured, to watch three able-bodied (but clearly not very able) climbers trying to poach his climb. Later, free of his cast at last, he returned to claim the ascent.


  • P1
  • 21
  • 12m
  • 4

12 12Pilier De Papillons, 20 20 12m 5
0

  • P1
  • 20
  • 12m
  • 5

13 13Shagging Ferddie, 19 19
0

  • P1
  • 19
  • m

14 14Spa Star, 19 19 9m 4
0

All Tim’s routes were done on his birthday, maybe there was a spa involved too.


  • P1
  • 19
  • 9m
  • 4

15 15Lake Flaccid, 17 17 10m 5
0

TMI.


  • P1
  • 17
  • 10m
  • 5

16 16Birthday Suit, 16 16 10m 5
0

A photo does exist of the first ascent. Be thankful it is not printed here.


  • P1
  • 16
  • 10m
  • 5

17 17Unknown 10m 1
0

Climb the curving flake with a chain-link bolt near the top.


  • P1
  • 10m
  • 1

18 18Frill Seekers, 22 22 11m 5
0

Nice to find a good sequins too.


  • P1
  • 22
  • 11m
  • 5

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Attribution
Wānaka Climbing Club
UUID
 
4c31dff3-42e5-46bd-a72c-075f6a97edcf