Sunnyside Right

Type

Part of

One of Wānaka's most popular crags, especially in winter when the climbs bask in sunshine. Although not especially tall, the crag is long and offers concentrated, high quality routes on superb rock.

Rights credit

Wānaka Rock 2021

Rights

Approach

From the Hospital Flat car park, walk west along the road for about 100m to the 4th road marker. Turn left into the bracken and head up the access track, which arrives at the right end of Sunnyside.

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality
15	15Oh the Bulge, 27	27	12m	4	0
Steep, technical climbing on bulging black rock. P1 27 12m 4 Trad
16	16Giz-a-Combo, 20	20	19m	5	1.02
Decipher the sequence to turn the overlap. P1 20 19m 5
17	17Anagaanga, 21	21	19m	5	1.02
Right of the undercling and crack feature, then deal to the steep headwall. P1 21 19m 5
18	18Hap Hazard, 19	19	19m	6	1.02
Right-angling arête and corner, then the right side of the headwall. P1 19 19m 6
19	19Where’s the Goddamned Drill, 18	18	19m	4	0
The layback corner was originally climbed on gear, but left littered with bolt studs. P1 18 19m 4
20	20Bella Linguini, 17	17	19m	4	0
Corner and ramp feature to steep bulge. P1 17 19m 4
21	21Life in the Fat Lane, 26	26	21m	6	1.02
A devious line and a distorted history. First climbed by Ian Binnie, traversing left from Who Stole My Doris, after equipper Hugh Barnard said, ‘Some other bastard can climb this.’ Jon Sedon added a direct start, arguably the scariest move, and Bruce Dowrick put in a direct finish on ‘not a lot of grips’. Take your pick. P1 26 21m 6
22	22Who Stole My Doris, 26	26	21m	5	2.01
To the break, then up on micro edges to big holds under the hanging corner. P1 26 21m 5
23	23No Sweat, 27	27	21m	6	3
From the break, head right on nice holds to a thin, technical crux and an athletic finish. P1 27 21m 6
24	24All That Remains, 24	24	21m	6	2.01
A series of bouldery moves between ledges. P1 24 21m 6
25	25Mental as Anything, 25	25	21m	5	3
Classic. Start off the block: fingertip cranking on sidepulls, underclings, edges, incuts, and a gaston. P1 25 21m 5
26	26Delirium, 26	26	21m	7	0
Start as for Mental As Anything, from the big jug catch the undercling and pull hard. P1 26 21m 7
27	27Ode to Powergel, 25	25	7m	2	1.02
Crimp up the short face, then crack on. P1 25 7m 2 Trad
28	28Winners and Losers, 19	19	25m	5	2.01
The left-angling crack, with a mantle onto the break. Now up and right on the headwall and left once more to turn the bulge with the crack. P1 19 25m 5

Comments

This place appears in

Wānaka Rock, 2021

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Attribution

Wānaka Climbing Club

UUID

49e3363e-a166-4672-8085-464bfe29030c