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Sunnyside

Type
Sector
Part of
Hospital Flat South

One of Wānaka's most popular crags, especially in winter when the climbs bask in sunshine. Although not especially tall, the crag is long and offers concentrated, high quality routes on superb rock.

Rights credit
Wānaka Rock 2021
Rights
Copyright Wānaka Climbing Club and New Zealand Alpine Club
Walktime
10 min
Aspect
North East
Approach

From the Hospital Flat car park, walk west along the road for about 100m to the 4th road marker. Turn left into the bracken and head up the access track, which arrives at the right end of Sunnyside.

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
1 1The Bastard of Cleardale, 22 22 17m 5
2.01

A domestic crisis provides inspiration. From the ramp, power up right, then trend left.

  • P1
  • 22
  • 17m
  • 5
2 2El Niño, 17 17 18m 5
1.02

A juggy arête with a few good moves.

  • P1
  • 17
  • 18m
  • 5
3 3Thronearium, 16 16 18m
0

The bridging corner is dodgy and rarely climbed. Use the El Niño anchor.

  • P1
  • 16
  • 18m
  • Trad
4 4Mean Streak, 23 23 18m 3
0

Keep left of the black streak, then power up through the overlap on underclings.

  • P1
  • 23
  • 18m
  • 3
5 574HQ, 21 21 16m 4
1.02

Solve the short arête, then trend up and left, using a flake, to powerful face moves.

  • P1
  • 21
  • 16m
  • 4
6 6Power Curve, 25 25 18m 5
0

Grey rock to the overlap. Lurch off the side-pull to a jug and desperate face.

  • P1
  • 25
  • 18m
  • 5
7 7Mum’s on the Run, 20 20 14m 3
2.01

Up and right on jugs, pockets, slopers and incuts.

  • P1
  • 20
  • 14m
  • 3
8 8Creepy Crawler, 23 23 13m 3
2.01

Thin moves on the face to an undercling at the overlap, then slither onwards.

  • P1
  • 23
  • 13m
  • 3
9 9Head On, 24 24 12m 3
1.02

Crimpy to the overlap, then good side-pulls. Originally led boldly on minimal gear.

  • P1
  • 24
  • 12m
  • 3
10 10The Naked Thumb, 20 20 12m
1.02

The tricky, right-trending crack was first soloed by Gonzo.

  • P1
  • 20
  • 12m
  • Trad
11 11Truncated, 26 26 12m 3
0

Thin black rock to a looong reach and sustained finish.

  • P1
  • 26
  • 12m
  • 3
12 12Sisters of Mercy, 22 22 16m 5
1.02

Find redemption on the well-featured face and corner system.

  • P1
  • 22
  • 16m
  • 5
13 13Subdivision Connection, 23 23 16m 5
1.02

Development never sleeps.

  • P1
  • 23
  • 16m
  • 5
14 14Shark Chirac, 22 22 16m 5
1.02

Mantle over the sharp ledge to crimps.

  • P1
  • 22
  • 16m
  • 5
Comments
This place appears in
Wānaka Rock, 2021
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