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Main Cliff

Type

It may not have the biggest or best or hardest routes, but it is very likely the most popular crag in Wānaka, especially for school groups and climbing instructors. The anchors on top of the crag are easy to access for top roping and abseiling. The rock dries quickly after rain.

Image
Rights credit
Wānaka Rock 2021
Rights
Copyright Wānaka Climbing Club and New Zealand Alpine Club
Walktime
5 min
Access

From the Hospital Flat car park, cross the stile and walk east along the fence line for about 150m towards the big cliff on the edge of the valley floor.

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
1 1The System, 23 23 10m
0

Committing moves to a fixed pin, then traverse up and right.


  • P1
  • 23
  • 10m
  • Trad

2 2Mud Wiggle, 17 17 10m
0

The left-trending crack.


  • P1
  • 17
  • 10m
  • Trad

3 3Felines of Rata, 20 20 10m
0

Short and gnarly.


  • P1
  • 20
  • 10m
  • Trad

4 4Pennywise, 14 14 10m
0

A scrubby crack.


  • P1
  • 14
  • 10m
  • Trad

5 5Don’t Call Me Shorty, 20 20 10m 2
0

But it is a short route. Climb the slab.


  • P1
  • 20
  • 10m
  • 2

6 6Senstra Dextra, 20 20 20m
1.02

Start off the ramp at the thin crack, then traverse right to another crack, which leads through the overlap. Traverse right below a roof to the anchor. The cracks take good natural pro, but take care with placements – some stunning ground falls have occurred.


  • P1
  • 20
  • 20m
  • Trad

7 7The Nutty Professor, 19 19 15m
2.01

Start Senstra Dextra and climb straight up the crack without traversing, then through the overlap.


  • P1
  • 19
  • 15m
  • Trad

8 8Lolly Gobble Bliss Bomb, 20 20 20m
0

Climb Senstra Dextra but turn the roof. Courage and small wires are necessary.


  • P1
  • 20
  • 20m
  • Trad

9 9Direct Approach, 20 20 20m
0

… or a courageous approach. Start below the twin cracks to join Senstra Dextra.


  • P1
  • 20
  • 20m
  • Trad

10 10The Big Corner, 14 14 20m
3

Climb the corner, then move left along the big flake.


  • P1
  • 14
  • 20m
  • Trad

11 11Bang My Drum, 18 18 20m 4
1.02

Left hand side of the arête and wall.


  • P1
  • 18
  • 20m
  • 4

12 12Headbangers’ Arête, 17 17 20m 5
3

Jim Beam is optional. Climb the obvious arête.


  • P1
  • 17
  • 20m
  • 5

13 13After Burner, 18 18 20m 5
0

A forced contrivance. Start Headbangers’ Arête, then climb right on the knobbly wall.


  • P1
  • 18
  • 20m
  • 5

14 14Thin and Germanic, 23 23 15m 3
0

Thin moves up the face to finish either in the wide crack or up Wasted on the Wing.


  • P1
  • 23
  • 15m
  • 3
  • Trad

15 15Wasted on the Wing, 14 14 15m
1.02

Climb the diagonal crack up and left.


  • P1
  • 14
  • 15m
  • Trad

16 16Straight Up the Face, 18 18 15m 4
0

Start Wasted on the Wing but continue straight up the wall. It’s a long way to the first bolt.


  • P1
  • 18
  • 15m
  • 4

17 17Do I Have To?, 13 13 20m 5
1.02

Left up a pleasant ramp, through a cruxy step, and into a corner system.


  • P1
  • 13
  • 20m
  • 5

18 18Excuse Me!, 15 15 20m 4
0

To the same anchor as Quite Nifty.


  • P1
  • 15
  • 20m
  • 4

19 19Quite Nifty, 12 12 20m 4
0

Climb the ramp onto a left-facing corner and over a bulge.


  • P1
  • 12
  • 20m
  • 4

20 20Mainly Trampling, 16 16 10m 3
0

A short one to help spread out the crowds.


  • P1
  • 16
  • 10m
  • 3

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UUID
 
784b6fb7-a4ca-47f8-8e4d-f93d152d0127