Highside | ClimbNZ

Type

Part of

Highside is, as you’d expect, big, high and wide. The rock quality varies from poor to excellent but there is a good range of grades to keep most climbers happy, from beginner to expert.

Rights credit

Wānaka Rock 2021

Rights

Walktime

15 min

Approach

The upper crags are slightly more quickly accessed from the right (looking up from the carpark) side of the Highside Loop Track, but if wet or for the descent many people prefer the drier and less steep left side. Take your pick.
Caution If kārearea (falcons) object to climbers during spring, they will be nesting, so please choose a different crag.

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality
1	1Baldy, 12	12	33m	9	0
Take the slabby ramp below the blue-grey water streak. Watch rope length when lowering or abseiling. P1 12 33m 9
2	2High Maintenance, 19	19	20m	7	0
From the Baldy anchors, climb the steep wall above. Great combined with Baldy as a single long pitch. P1 19 20m 7
3	3Popeye, 22	22	20m	6	0
After a hearty breakfast of spinach, climb to the Baldy anchors, then right on the steep wall above. Loose in places. P1 22 20m 6
4	4Skylar’s Path, 20	20	20m	5	0
Up the middle-right black streak of the upper wall. In memory of Skylar. P1 20 20m 5
5	5Blue Meanie, 28	28	20m	9	2.01
Try to retain your optimism on the blue-grey water streak. P1 28 20m 9
6	6Dr Sharp, 30	30		8	1.02
May be festooned with comfy jugs. Or maybe not. P1 30 m 8
7	7Free Dive, 26	26		6	2.01
Starts at Attict, finishes up Blue Meanie. This and Attict P1 26 m 6
8	8Attict, 26	26	15m	7	2.01
The right-angling crack goes through excellent rock. P1 26 15m 7
9	9Malomodo, 28	28	20m	10	1.02
A journey via technical slab, boulder problem and sporty finish. The obvious link-ups with Attict both go in the 26/27 range. P1 28 20m 10
10	10Daydreams & Fantasies, 23	23	26m	11	1.02
A steep slab to the tricky, overhanging, right-facing corner. P1 23 26m 11
11	11Beer Goggles, 16	16	25m	11	0
Climb the big corner and arête feature, then up and right through ugly rock. P1 16 25m 11
12	12Getting High, 19	19	15m	7	0
The super exposed wall above the Beer Goggles anchor has lovely big holds. If you can manage the rope drag, combine both routes as a single pitch. P1 19 15m 7
13	13Johnny Rotten, 23	23	20m	12	0
As the man said: ‘You should never, ever be understood completely’! P1 23 20m 12
14	14Never Mind The Bollocks!, 20	20	7m	3	0
Extension to Johnny Rotten, watch the fall onto the ledge if doing it in one pitch from the ground. P1 20 7m 3
15	15God Save The Queen, 19	19	26m	13	0
Right of Johnny Rotten, clipping that route’s anchor on the way past, to finish level with and right of Never Mind The Bollocks! P1 19 26m 13
16	16Simon’s Virginity Route, 20	20	20m	8	1.02
Follow the seam up and over a number of problematic bulges. P1 20 20m 8
17	17Emoticon, 23	23	25m	12	0
A tricky mantle unlocks easier ground. From the ledge, climb the steep face on good holds (once you find them). P1 23 25m 12
18	18Bula, 16	16	20m	8	0
A flaky slab wends up to the steep corner. Finish up and right on a slab. P1 16 20m 8

Comments

This place appears in

Wānaka Rock, 2021

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Attribution

Wānaka Climbing Club

UUID

3d4fdc03-b184-474d-9bbe-6aba9b1a8e33