Hangover | ClimbNZ

Type

Part of

Another big, high and wide cliff with mostly excellent rock. Most routes are at moderate grades and these, together with a few staunch outings, make for a great crag with exposed atmosphere.

Rights credit

Wānaka Rock 2021

Rights

Walktime

15 min

Approach

The upper crags are slightly more quickly accessed from the right (looking up from the carpark) side of the Highside Loop Track, but if wet or for the descent many people prefer the drier and less steep left side. Take your pick.
Caution! If kārearea (falcons) object to climbers during spring, they will be nesting, so please choose a different crag.

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality
1	1Super Elastic Bubble Plastic, 22	22	15m	4	0
Contrived crimps and pockets. Had the hangers removed, may not be climbable. P1 22 15m 4
2	2She’s a Little Goer, 20	20	35m	9	2.01
Steep pockets on great rock. Stopping at the lower anchor is 19 (7 bolts). P1 20 35m 9
3	3Peewee, 14	14	20m	5	0
Start She’s a Little Goer but traverse right across the ledge. P1 14 20m 5
4	4Preloader, 24	24			0
A direct start to Under The Table or a short but worthwhile route by itself. P1 24 m
5	5English Hose, 22	22	20m	9	0
Starts off a large boulder, climb left along a diagonal break to a ledge, then up a slab and left again below the intimidating roof. P1 22 20m 9
6	6Bit on the Side, 19	19	10m	2	0
The short wall past two bolts. Can be climbed as a direct start to English Hose. P1 19 10m 2
7	7Under the Table, 25	25	10m	5	2.01
Magnificent upside down-ness from the Peewee/ English Hose anchor, out along the big roof. P1 25 10m 5
8	8Paparazzi’s Revenge, 20	20	20m	6	2.01
From the Peewee anchor, traverse right under the roof then up the exposed face. Caution! It’s a 30m abseil to the ground from the top anchors on the headwall. P1 20 20m 6
9	9Pocket Edition, 23	23	15m	5	2.01
Hard off the ground, then a steep, pocketed wall with excellent holds. P1 23 15m 5
10	10Size Counts, 24	24	15m	4	1.02
A hard start to the crack and seam through the roof. P1 24 15m 4
11	11Fur Breath, 22	22	15m	7	2.01
The middle route on the steep upper wall. An excellent extension to Pocket Edition or start from the Get Loaded anchors. Caution: 30m abseil. P1 22 15m 7
12	12Sloppy Drunk, 18	18	20m	9	1.02
Once off the ground, climb up and right on good black rock to a technical arête. P1 18 20m 9
13	13Get Loaded, 19	19	15m	6	2.01
Climbs the steep corner system on the right side of the steep headwall. Start at the anchor bottom right of the steep head wall, or climb as an extension/ diversion from Sloppy Drunk. Caution: 30m abseil. P1 19 15m 6
14	14Bon Voyage, 21	21	20m	10	2.01
Hang a left after the fourth bolt of Get Loaded and traverse the entire steep and exposed headwall. Just as much fun for seconds as leaders! Caution: 30m abseil. P1 21 20m 10
15	15Acid Rain, 27	27	25m	9	1.02
The heinous thin corner, then move left up the flake on the steep face. More steep pocketed rock leads to a slab finish. P1 27 25m 9
16	16Ed the Protester, 21	21	20m	7	2.01
This corner crack system was originally an aid route called Crystal Crack climbed by Ed Nepia, using one bolt and natural protection. Murray Ball extended things to include the pocketed face above, and added an alternative right-hand start. Much later, the route was revamped again, adding more bolts and another start 5m right, traversing back into the corner. P1 21 20m 7
17	17Two Puffs and You’re Up, 24	24	20m	7	0
Steep face climbing until you can escape out right on Little Doris. P1 24 20m 7
18	18Little Doris, 15	15	20m	7	1.02
Tricky for the grade. Left-leaning slab to a steep face. P1 15 20m 7
19	19Day of the Kumara, 26	26	15m	4	1.02
Suck it up for this intricate climb up the steep face, with a challenging crux and a committing finish. P1 26 15m 4
20	20Puff the Magic Cabbage, 20	20	15m	5	0
The mighty open book corner and fist crack. Will make an excellent extended route one day. P1 20 15m 5

Comments

This place appears in

Wānaka Rock, 2021

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Attribution

Wānaka Climbing Club

UUID

bdbe5f78-127b-4b5a-9e2f-0e82c31cc398