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The Crackhouse

Type
Sector
Part of
Hospital Flat South

Not just a clever name! Between the good bolted routes are an assortment of excellent crack lines. The crag is sheltered from the wind and a good early morning venue during winter or mid-afternoon destination in summer.

Rights credit
Wānaka Rock 2021
Rights
Copyright Wānaka Climbing Club and New Zealand Alpine Club
Walktime
5 min
Approach

Access from the right (looking up from the carpark) side of the Highside Loop Track.

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
1 1At Your Leisure, 21 21 15m 6
1.02

Traverse right, turn the bulge and loaf up the face.

  • P1
  • 21
  • 15m
  • 6
2 2Things You Kneed, 27 27 15m 5
0

Powerful, desperate and precise climbing up the central route on the short wall. Unfortunately the crux is clipping the second bolt. Don’t blow it.

  • P1
  • 27
  • 15m
  • 5
3 3What Lies Beneath, 24 24 15m 7
1.02

A hard start, then angle left to the break and up a short face.

  • P1
  • 24
  • 15m
  • 7
4 4Critics’ Choice, 20 20 30m 8
2.01

A grisly survivor of the ethics wars of the 2000s. Clip the bolts or bring your cams.

  • P1
  • 20
  • 30m
  • 8
5 5Karearea Crack, 22 22 20m
2.01

Quality laybacking using the finger crack.

  • P1
  • 22
  • 20m
  • Trad
6 6Slip Thru the Cracks, 26 26 20m 5
2.01

Hardly unobtrusive. Steep and technical face climbing on good rock.

  • P1
  • 26
  • 20m
  • 5
7 7Gastroman, 20 20 20m
1.02

The steep fist crack has a bulge – and a few big holds to ease the pump.

  • P1
  • 20
  • 20m
  • Trad
8 8Crack Under Pressure, 24 24 20m 6
1.02

Climb into a pod then trend right to escape the steep bulge. Face climbing to the top.

  • P1
  • 24
  • 20m
  • 6
9 9Jedi Knight, 22 22 20m 1
0

The steep, ugly crack system relents to face climbing.

  • P1
  • 22
  • 20m
  • 1
  • Trad
10 10Chewbacca, 22 22 20m 7
0

Hairy. A corner, face and crack system.

  • P1
  • 22
  • 20m
  • 7
11 11Driveby, 22 22 15m 5
1.02

Start left of WBARC. Climb obvious large pockets to wall and slab finish.

  • P1
  • 22
  • 15m
  • 5
12 12Wanna Be A Roof Climber, 24 24 15m 5
0

Up short wall left of Wanna Be A Crack Climber, through steep roof and finish to WBACC anchor.

  • P1
  • 24
  • 15m
  • 5
13 13Wanna Be A Crack Climber, 19 19 15m 5
1.02

Really two routes with same start. Climb the featured face on the left or right.

  • P1
  • 19
  • 15m
  • 5
14 14Thrutching, 18 18 15m
0

You know you want to. Climb the arching corner system.

  • P1
  • 18
  • 15m
  • Trad
15 15New Beginnings, 17 17
0

Climb right of the corner.

  • P1
  • 17
  • m
  • Trad
Comments
This place appears in
Wānaka Rock, 2021
Buy this guidebook
Attribution
Wānaka Climbing Club
UUID
 
e57d29d1-47c8-4b8c-aa56-696259774fc3