A nice place to warm up on a cold winter’s day. It’s a sheltered cliff with good rock, sporting quality beginners’ climbs and a few routes to push the limits.
Access from the right (looking up from the carpark) side of the Highside Loop Track, past The Crackhouse.
Caution! If kārearea (falcons) object to climbers during spring, they will be nesting, so please choose a different crag.
Routes
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Alert | Operations |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 1Clean Sweep, 16 | 16 | 15m | 4 |
|||
|
A vague diagonal seam, up and right.
|
|||||||
| 2 | 2Guillotine, 22 | 22 | 15m | 4 |
|||
|
After a sequence of small crimps carefully reach for the blade of the guillotine and do one or two harder moves before the slab above. Shares last bolt and anchor of Clean Sweep.
|
|||||||
| 3 | 3Sunny Mondays, 26 | 26 | 15m | 7 |
|||
|
You gotta love ’em. Edge up the face.
|
|||||||
| 4 | 4Dead Line, 25 | 25 | 15m | ||||
|
The crimpy face.
|
|||||||
| 5 | 5Sweet Sixteen, 16 | 16 | 15m | 4 |
|||
|
Left-facing corner and face climb.
|
|||||||
| 6 | 6Showtime, 20 | 20 | 25m | 11 |
|||
|
P1: (17) Layback onto a low-angle face climb.
|
|||||||
| 7 | 7The Entertainer, 24 | 24 | 25m | 6 |
|||
|
Up the burly-looking crack, finding that appearances do not deceive, then outwards and onwards.
|
|||||||
| 8 | 8A Long Time Coming, 23 | 23 | 25m | 12 |
|||
|
Turn the arête, then a long reach left and up on excellent, well-featured stone.
|
|||||||
| 9 | 9Slap on the Face, 21 | 21 | 15m | 4 |
|||
|
Climb onto the ledge, turn the bulge and power the face climbing.
|
|||||||
| 10 | 10Short Sharp Shock, 22 | 22 | 10m | 5 |
|||
|
Over the bulge then straight up on good holds.
|
|||||||
| 11 | 11Sharp Shooter, 19 | 19 | 10m | 5 |
|||
|
Start in the corner and climb up on good jugs until things get a little tricky.
|
|||||||
| 12 | 12My Hovercraft Is Full, 20 | 20 | 9m | 4 |
|||
|
Directly up the arête on good holds.
|
|||||||
