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The Vatican

Type
Sector
Part of
Hospital Flat North

A nice setting with some of the best routes of their grade. Please follow the signposted rules for this area.

Rights credit
Wānaka Rock 2021
Rights
Copyright Wānaka Climbing Club and New Zealand Alpine Club
Walktime
25 min
Approach

From the Hospital Flat car park, cross the road and stile and follow the marked track to the gate just before Kai Whaka Pai Crag. Go through the gate then head uphill on cattle tracks to the right of the Diamond Lake creek, skirting the swampy basin to the right. At the top of the next rise, veer right over a low saddle, cross a small creek and traverse to the crag.

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
1 1Buggery, 18 18 20m 8
1.02

The left-most route, up through the bulges.

  • P1
  • 18
  • 20m
  • 8
2 2Little Boy Blues, 18 18 20m 8
1.02

Face climbing left of the white streak.

  • P1
  • 18
  • 20m
  • 8
3 3Collared, 19 19 20m 6
1.02

Face climbing up the white streak.

  • P1
  • 19
  • 20m
  • 6
4 4Rangitāne, 18 18 30m 1
3

The splitter crack. Medium–large wires and small–medium cams useful.

  • P1
  • 18
  • 30m
  • 1
  • Trad
5 5Tiki Tour, 21 21 30m 14
3

P1: (19, 5b) Short face and chimney to ledge. P2: (21, 12b) Superb face climbing on great rock. Can be done in one long pitch.

  • P1
  • 21
  • 30m
  • 14
6 6Schism In the Faith, 16 16 8
1.02

P1: (16, 5b) A bit of everything. Layback the flake, then go caving. Uses same ledge belay as P1 of Tiki Tour. P2: (15, 3B) From the ledge climb the corner to the anchor at top of Faith No More P

  • P1
  • 16
  • m
  • 8
7 7Faith No More, 18 18 35m 15
1.02

P1: (17, 10b) Through roof and up face to anchor on the picnic shelf. P2: (18, 6B) To the anchor on top of the arête.

  • P1
  • 18
  • 35m
  • 15
8 8Blade Runner, 15 15 35m 13
2.01

Excellent slab climbing with superb quartz edges. There is a rap anchor en-route.

  • P1
  • 15
  • 35m
  • 13
9 9Pope John Pull, 20 20 28m 13
2.01

Up first line right of the big nose.

  • P1
  • 20
  • 28m
  • 13
10 10Le Poupe, 22 22 28m 12
1.02

Up the wall right of Blade Runner. The first corner is 15 then is gets steadily harder as the holds vanish. Pumpy roof then easy slab to finish.

  • P1
  • 22
  • 28m
  • 12
11 11Magical Mycological Experiment, 20 20 28m 10
1.02

Start as for Le Poupe, but trend further right after the first half.

  • P1
  • 20
  • 28m
  • 10
Comments
This place appears in
Wānaka Rock, 2021
Buy this guidebook
Attribution
Wānaka Climbing Club
UUID
 
d353b8bb-685d-48b1-976c-102b9dd94008