Wānaka’s version of The Grand Grotte in Kalymnos, just without any of those added-value Mediterranean attractions like wandering goats that finish your lunch for you.
From the Hospital Flat car park cross the road and pick up the beaten path directly opposite that heads into the bracken.
Routes
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Alert | Operations |
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| 1 | 1Flake News, 22 | 22 | 5 |
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The steep, short white wall at the left end of the crag.
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| 2 | 2Please Hold The Line, 21 | 21 | 5 |
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Follow obvious corner crack to the right of FN, right under the roof then steeply up. Two permadraws.
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| 3 | 3Reign Of Terra, 26 | 26 | 6 |
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Climb the orange pillar, follow the lip of roof and fixed draws right into the corner of FOY, then finish to FOY chains. Or a hard finishing option at 27 is to go left to the Hope Springs Eternal Extension. Burly either way.
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| 4 | 4Terra Firma, 26 | 26 | 12 |
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Keep heading right to finish at the anchors of Slim Shady, presumably because continuing on to Falcon Steep was a step too far for the belayer’s patience.
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| 5 | 5Hope Springs Eternal, 24 | 24 | 10 |
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Share start of FOY. At the roof head left, following permadraws along a rising traverse. Finish at the last permadraw, or continue on the extension (26).
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| 6 | 6Fountain Of Youth, 24 | 24 | 9 |
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First route at the crag and by no means the least ambitious. Start at the centre of the wall, step off the tree taking care to keep your toes dry. Climb over the bulge onto the wall, then through roof past permadraw and finish up the right diagonal corner.
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| 7 | 7Corruption At The Top, 25 | 25 | 10 |
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Start at the right-most start of the crag, same as for Slim Shady. Climb slab then negotiate wet corner, traverse under roof then up to last bolt of FOY and its anchor.
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| 8 | 8Slim Shady, 27 | 27 | 5 |
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… and Stonking. Up the steep arête to where it gets steeper.
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| 9 | 9What We Do In The Shadows, 28 | 28 | 9 |
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Indeed. Start as for Slim Shady but take the even steeper option to the right. Catch your breath under the roof then go full Bat-Fight mode.
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