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Hidden Gem

Type

A steep cliff hidden between Brummy Crag and Kai Whaka Pai facing north east towards the Vatican. In winter it’s a real gem, the only northern crag in the sun for the whole morning and with a burbling soundtrack from the Diamond Lake outlet stream. The rock is solid, slightly overhanging and stays warm and dry all year round. All routes have a bolt and chain at the base for belayer.

Image
Rights credit
Wānaka Rock 2021
Rights
Copyright Wānaka Climbing Club and New Zealand Alpine Club
Walktime
10 min
Approach

The access track is on private property so please heed the signposted instructions. Head around the field to the gate as for Kai Whaka Pai crag, but then head left and up the cattle path beside the wee canyon to the next flat. To this point is the same as for The Vatican, but now turn left and head across the stream to the obvious crag.

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
1 1Never Ending Story, 24 24 25m 10
1.02

Climb all the way to the anchor of Calvary, i.e. the anchor at the top of the last white streak. Watch out for your forearms. It is easiest to retrieve quickdraws by top-roping. (Stopping at the first anchor is End Of Story, 23)


  • P1
  • 24
  • 25m
  • 10

2 2Baila Baila, 24 24 9m 4
0

Baila, Baila, Baila to the anchor!


  • P1
  • 24
  • 9m
  • 4

3 3Boys Do Cry, 27 27 11m 5
1.02

Another Wānaka thin-face testpiece. Remember: boys do cry!


  • P1
  • 27
  • 11m
  • 5

4 4Smells Like Teen Spirit, 24 24 15m 6
1.02

Nice moves to the crack and corner above. The left finish is Come As You Are (25).


  • P1
  • 24
  • 15m
  • 6

5 5Project 17m 7
0

Start as for Smells Like Teen Spirit, finishes on the dark rock right of Calvary.


  • P1
  • 17m
  • 7

6 6Calvary, 23 23 16m 7
0

All the way to Golgotha! Doglegs left along the diagonal crack to finish left of the white streak.


  • P1
  • 23
  • 16m
  • 7

7 7High Hopes, 23 23 13m 5
0

Alternative finish to Calvary, with a hard move followed by steep crack.


  • P1
  • 23
  • 13m
  • 5

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Attribution
Wānaka Climbing Club
UUID
 
937f0e39-7dad-4378-be27-c6c2cf1f1dca