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The Cutting

Type
Sector
Part of
Hospital Flat North

These cliffs are high in the bush opposite the car park and Sunnyside. There is some great face climbing on high-angled slabs with mostly excellent rock. The cliffs are shaded most of the time and normally remain damp until early summer.

Rights credit
Wānaka Rock 2021
Rights
Copyright Wānaka Climbing Club and New Zealand Alpine Club
Walktime
5–10 min
Approach

From the Hospital Flat car park, walk west along the road for about 100m to the 4th road marker. Cross the road and pick up the track opposite.
After a short climb through the bush there is a fork, the left track takes you to Middle Wall then Left Wall, the right track takes you to the Right Wall then the Partition, then Sound Garden by continuing around and above the Partition.
The Left Wall can also be accessed via a separate track another 100m along the road.

Add Place Add Route

Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
9 9Downsize Me, 17 17 20m 8
0

Don’t bite off more than you can chew on the technical slab.

  • P1
  • 17
  • 20m
  • 8
10 10Sneka, 18 18 15m 7
0

Steep slab that eases angle higher up.

  • P1
  • 18
  • 15m
  • 7
11 11I Thought I Had Her, 17 17 20m 6
1.02

Tricky start, then good moves left of the overlap.

  • P1
  • 17
  • 20m
  • 6
12 12Gotta Match, 18 18 20m 6
1.02

Nice face climbing, turn the bulge then up a low angle slab.

  • P1
  • 18
  • 20m
  • 6
13 13Drying Out, 18 18 20m 6
1.02

Face climbing followed by tough moves through the overlap.

  • P1
  • 18
  • 20m
  • 6
14 14Cleaning for the Hell Of It, 19 19 6
2.01

Thin edges and – yes – tricky moves through the overlap.

  • P1
  • 19
  • m
  • 6
15 15Labour Only, 21 21 20m 6
2.01

Thin climbing on steep slab with devious moves. A thinking person’s climb.

  • P1
  • 21
  • 20m
  • 6
16 16Right Wing Politics, 18 18 20m 5
0

Face climbing up broken rock, but with good moves.

  • P1
  • 18
  • 20m
  • 5
17 17Wilma, 15 15 15m 4
1.02

Climb the first pitch of Falcon Screech. Climb up to the left anchor on the break, climbing on quartz edges.

  • P1
  • 15
  • 15m
  • 4
18 18Fred, 15 15 15m 4
0

Climb the first pitch of Falcon Screech. Climb up to the right anchor on the break, climbing on large ledges.

  • P1
  • 15
  • 15m
  • 4
19 19Falcon Screech, 19 19 25m 7
1.02

P1: (17) Climb good rock with a tricky crux up to ledge.

  • P1
  • 19
  • 25m
  • 7
20 20Henry the Eighth, 18 18 20m 8
2.01

Believe it or not, the name is nothing to do with cutting heads off. Excellent corner and arête line around the roof.

  • P1
  • 18
  • 20m
  • 8
21 21Cutting It Fine, 25 25 20m 7
1.02

Thin moves to and through the roof then easier ground.

  • P1
  • 25
  • 20m
  • 7
22 22Swift Upper Cut, 25 25 20m 7
1.02

Start left of Not Just Another Face Climb. Rock onto slab then roof and arête to share chains of NJAFC.

  • P1
  • 25
  • 20m
  • 7
23 23Not Just Another Face Climb, 24 24 20m 9
2.01

A classic for the grade. A steep and bouldery start leads to a couple of tricky overlaps, a balancy thin flake section, and a mellow finish on well-featured rock.

  • P1
  • 24
  • 20m
  • 9
24 24The Secret To Happiness, 23 23 20m 7
2.01

Start right of NJAFC under the bulge. Thrutch left along a break to a rockover then thin moves up the black slab. Share anchors to the right with TPS.

  • P1
  • 23
  • 20m
  • 7
25 25The Philosopher’s Stone, 20 20 20m 7
3

Follow the right diagonal crack before stepping left onto the face and up through the overlap.

  • P1
  • 20
  • 20m
  • 7
26 26Gone By Lunchtime, 21 21 7
1.02

The rightmost route on the right cliff. Named after Don Brash’s famous quote about the nuclear free policy, along with his subsequent fate.

  • P1
  • 21
  • m
  • 7
Comments
This place appears in
Wānaka Rock, 2021
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Attribution
Wānaka Climbing Club
UUID
 
aa8fef43-3c5d-479e-8ad7-9b06ce2a5ae8