A good beginner to intermediate area with easy access that is popular with families and school groups. This crag is a good place to warm up in the morning sun, and a nice retreat from late afternoon sun. Please follow the signposted rules for this area.
This access track is on private property. From the Hospital Flat car park, cross the road and then the stile, and walk about 100m following the marked track north to the cliffs, just around the corner at or near the valley floor.
Routes
Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Alert | Operations |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | 1H5B3, 8 | 8 | 10m | 3 | |||
The first short slab, painstakingly dug out of the hillside. Great for kids.
|
|||||||
2 | 2Where the Hell’s Little River, 12 | 12 | 10m | 3 | |||
The short buttress is a sweet first lead or warm-up. Recently fixed up.
|
|||||||
3 | 3Curiously Sheepish, 14 | 14 | 15m | 6 | |||
From a tidy belay stance, climb the seam and face to a break – then up steeper rock.
|
|||||||
4 | 4Stealing Candy from a Baby, 17 | 17 | 15m | 5 | |||
Climb the slab, turn the roof to the left, then trend back up and right. Most of the grunt work was done by John Hammond, and then the glory of the first ascent was nabbed by the usual suspects.
|
|||||||
5 | 5Genetic Betrayal, 17 | 17 | 15m | 5 | |||
The corner system right of the roof has some grunty face climbing.
|
|||||||
6 | 6Groover, 17 | 17 | 15m | 5 | |||
Undercling the flake over a bulge, then up the corner.
|
|||||||
7 | 7The Meat in the Middle, 18 | 18 | 15m | 4 | |||
A dihedral corner system.
|
|||||||
8 | 8Seam Stress, 23 | 23 | 15m | 4 | |||
Steep face climbing up the seam and arête with a slab finish out left.
|