Little Big Wall

Type

Part of

An atmospheric cliff with a wide range of grades and some multi-pitch routes. The crag will keep most climbers, from beginner to experienced, exhilarated. Generally, the rock quality is good.

Rights credit

Wānaka Rock 2021

Rights

Walktime

15 min

Access

From the car park opposite the West Wānaka Road turnoff, cross two stiles and walk behind the cattle yards towards the crag. At the big boulders, you enter the DOC conservation area. Sidle up and left towards the left edge of the cliff.
Caution!

The fixed wire cable on the main face is only to aid access, not to be an anchor.
Descent from the Drop Out Ledge is a free-hanging abseil requiring double ropes (40m) or a very careful swing into the Halfway ledge.
Left of Turn On, Tune In, Drop Out is an unstable rockfall area. Avoid!

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality
1	1Turn On, Tune In, Drop Out, 16	16	60m	12	3
An excellent adventure with three short pitches and an exciting 40m abseil descent. Caution! See descent information above. P1: (15) Start on a small overhang, passing bolts to a crack through the overlap. P2: (16) Move left and over a small roof, then out onto the slab. P3: (14) Move right along the ramp to an exposed move around to the Drop Out Ledge. P1 16 60m 12 Trad
2	2Beatnik, 15	15	15m	6	1.02
Start Turn On, Tune In then follow bolts onto a slab. P1 15 15m 6
3	3Wickedness Increased, 20	20	15m	6	1.02
Starts on the arête with a big jug hold, then joins Beatnik. P1 20 15m 6
4	4The Full Monty, 19	19	25m	4	1.02
An excellent link-up extension. Climb Beatnik or Wickedness Increased and continue up the steep groove. P1 19 25m 4
5	5Little Big Bloke, 23	23	15m	8	2.01
A staunch traverse up and right from Wickedness Increased. P1 23 15m 8
6	6Little Bit More, 23	23	18m	6	1.02
Start off ramp to face 10m P1 23 18m 6
7	7Left Right Out, 21	21		11	2.01
Climb Wickedness Increased and step right to belay or continue leading through. Steep moves gain the arête as soon as possible then hand-rail the arête to a glory finish on the top out ledge. Very good combined as a single pitch, bring extenders and around 20 clips. P1 21 m 11
8	8Big Kids, 25	25	25m	7	0
P1: (15) Climb up and right over crumbly rock to a ledge. P2: (25) Hard climbing to the big ledge. P1 25 25m 7
9	9Paparazzi Party, 21	21	15m	10	0
Begin 5m left of the cable. Trend left then back right to join the third pitch of Turn On, Tune In. P1 21 15m 10
10	10Ultrasound, 26	26	20m	8	3
From the left end of the cable, climb from groove to pod, then fire up the brown streak. P1 26 20m 8
11	11Terminal Velocity, 28	28	22m	8	2.01
Start as for Little Big Boss but where that route goes right, continue straight up with increasing difficulty. Gains a nice rest up high but then... P1 28 22m 8
12	12Little Big Boss, 26	26	22m	8	3
The original route around here and finds the easiest way up some fierce real estate. Once above the overlap trend right. P1 26 22m 8
13	13Erratic Rogue, 28	28	22m	8	2.01
Trend right below the overlap, because why make it easy on yourself? P1 28 22m 8
14	14Rogue Erratic, 25	25	40m	13	3
P1: (20) Climb the corner crack system to the fixed cable and anchor. P1 25 40m 13
15	15High Schistosity, 24	24	20m	6	2.01
Climb steep orange rock to the layback feature. Flap madly to the anchor. P1 24 20m 6
16	16Super Sonic, 27	27	20m	8	2.01
Move to the right-most belay. A steep start, with excellent rock higher up. P1 27 20m 8
17	17Seventies Child, 13	13	15m	5	1.02
Cos it’s all about me. P1 13 15m 5
18	18Scaifey’s, 12	12	10m	5	0
A good introduction to slab climbing. P1 12 10m 5
19	19Dollar Man, 15	15	10m	5	0
Stemming moves through a dihedral, then break onto the slab. P1 15 10m 5
20	20Ink Blot Test, 24	24	22m	8	1.02
Bouldery start, then climb right of the water steak on quality rock. P1 24 22m 8

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This place appears in

Wānaka Rock, 2021

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