A labyrinth of huge boulders and big rock faces with a concentration of good rock routes, and a peaceful oasis of native bush.
From the car park opposite West Wānaka Rd, walk about 200m to the end of the cattle yards to find a warratah marking a track straight up steep bracken on the left. Head up this track, past the odd orange marker, helpful chain, a fence crossing and a cairn to where it levels off on a broad shoulder of the hillside. Trend up and right towards a big rock pile amid native bush, following a track marked with cairns. Some of the track is on private property, so please be respectful.
Routes
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Alert | Operations |
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| 1 | 1Afghan, 25 | 25 | 15m | 5 |
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The first route on the approach. The climbing is on thin holds.
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| 2 | 2Breaking Ground, 17 | 17 | 15m | 2 |
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Face climbing followed by a thin crack. Protection includes a carrot bolt and a piton.
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| 3 | 3Heli Beli, 18 | 18 | 20m | 6 |
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Face climbing.
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| 4 | 4Butt Crack Wedgy, 16 | 16 | 20m | 6 |
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Face climbing on a featured rock face.
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| 5 | 5Bathroom Refugee, 17 | 17 | 20m | 6 |
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Face climbing on a featured rock face.
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| 6 | 6Gorillas in the Schist, 18 | 18 | 25m | 7 |
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Take the steep slab through a dihedral then beat your chest and break out onto the bulge.
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| 7 | 7Schistose Intolerance, 24 | 24 | 20m | 7 |
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Crawl through the small slot between the main face and the big boulder to reach this route: slab climbing to a steep face with big reaches on good rock.
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| 8 | 8Merry Schistmas, 21 | 21 | 20m | 7 |
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Climb slabby face and the right side of arête.
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